Kayseri and its hidden Hippodrome

Kayseri was called Caesarea. To be named after Caesar, in this case Emperor Tiberius, who reigned from 14 AD to 37 AD, underscores its importance. 

The city was founded around 2000 BC as a trading post for the Hittites and the Assyrians. In Hellenistic times, it was known as Mazaka, and changed name again into Eusebia under Cappadocian rule. 

[Picture from Arkeonews]

The Hippodrome, however, is attributed to the Romans and was probably built in the 1^st century BC or early 1^st century AD. It has not been excavated yet, as it lies underneath the local market, which in turn sits on an ancient landfill that was heavily used from 1950 until 1980. Ten thousand tons of debris were deposited, creating a layer nearly 20 meters thick. It remained hidden until its contours appeared in a 19^th-century drawing, where it was labeled a Circus. 

The Roman Hippodrome is one of the three known examples found in Anatolia, i.e., in Ephesos and Pergamon. This structure is about 450 meters long, and its outlines with the curved ends remain intact. 

In late antiquity, Caesarea was an important city that may have counted 50,000 inhabitants. It sat on the main trade routes connecting to the Persian Royal Road and linking Sinope to the Euphrates.

There are no plans yet to start the excavation of the Hippodrome, partly because of the local open-air market that is still held there, partly because of the tons of debris that need to be removed. In the meantime, the site is registered as a protected area and will be monitored with geophysical equipment to gather as much information as possible. 

The importance of Perinthus

In antiquity, Perinthus was of strategic importance as it controlled Athens’ grain route from the Black Sea through the Bosporus. Each spring Athenian ships loaded with wheat from the Danube and Maritza basins sailed down via Byzantium, the Hellespont, and further across the Aegean to Athens. 

Perinthus, near the modern city of Tekirdağ, had two harbors in the East and the West side of the peninsula both used for commercial and military purposes. So far, the remains of a shipwreck have been located at a depth of 60 meters, and the finding is under investigation. More of the city’s buildings are being exposed, including an Acropolis with large temples and a theater. Besides the many small artifacts such as bits of jewelry and statuettes, there also is a necropolis.

[Picture from Sozcu.com.tr]

In late 352 BC, King Philip of Macedonia was asked to assist a coalition of Central Thracia, consisting of Byzantium, and Perinthus in besieging the nearby fortress town of Heraion Teichos that threatened Perinthus (see: Philip is bouncing back). He marched his army east, took the town, and returned it to Perinthus, presumably its original owner. 

Philip’s presence in the area was a threat to the Athenians but also to the Persians aiming to control Perinthus. In 340 BC, the Persians ordered Pixodarus of Caria, their ally in Halicarnassus, to help Perinthus revolt against Philip. The operation was not successful. 

Pixodarus then changed his mind as Persia was in turmoil after the murder of King Artaxerxes III. He thought it wise to seek Philip’s support instead. He offered his daughter, Ada, in marriage to Philip’s retarded son Arrhidaeus. The pact was accepted. 

However, Alexander felt left out and decided to act on his own, offering himself as a marital candidate. When Philip got vent of this maneuver behind his back, the agreement with Pixodarus was called off. Philip seriously reprimanded his son by exiling several of his closest friends from Pella (see: Pella, the birthplace of Alexander). 

By 188 BC, Perinthus fell under the rule of Pergamon until the Romans took over in 129 BC. By the end of the 2^nd century AD, they used the port as a main hub to ship their troops between the Euphrates and the Danube fronts. On the other hand, Perinthus had an important connection with the Via Militaris that ran west to Philippopolis, Serdica, and Viminacium. From here, the Via Egnatia led to Thessaloniki, Dyrrhachion, and Brundisium. 

Based on inscriptions from the late 2^nd century AD, it has been established that the provincial governors of Thracia had a residence in Perinthus. 

[Map from Stilus.nl]

In 286 AD, Emperor Diocletian renamed the city Heracleia to become a state capital. He may well have built a palace here as the outline of the ruins indicates a similarity with his palace in Nicomedia.

Under Constantine in 330 AD, Heracleia was supplanted by Byzantium which was renamed Constantinople. 

In the end, Perinthus lived a long and prosperous history thanks to its strategic location with ideal access to the Black Sea, the Aegean, and the Mediterranean, as well as inland Anatolia, and Egypt. Inevitably, it became a multicultural center populated by different peoples all speaking their own language. That sounds very close to today’s praise of Istanbul joining Europe and Asia. 

Reading and decoding inscriptions

Today’s visitors will inevitably come across many inscriptions when visiting ancient sites or museums. Reading Greek or Latin is not for everybody, and understanding the meaning of the text and context is reserved only for the happy few. The stone or marble support has more often than not suffered from wear and tear, leaving the untrained eye to merely guess its value. 

We are lucky to find an explanation next to the inscription, rarely a full translation, as those are reserved for scholars. Well, the text may be boring, but it also may contain some exciting twists and turns. Yet, who wants to know? 

In antiquity, people would read the latest laws and decrees, regulations and agreements, peace treaties, manumission of slaves, grave markers, boundary stones, milestones, etc., as they walked through public spaces. Some of these texts are still in situ, particularly those engraved on the walls of still-standing monuments. The majority, however, has found a place in the museum for safekeeping and is often out of sight. 

The most familiar examples of inscriptions are those chiseled on grave steles, sarcophagi, and tombs. They also appear on the pedestals of statues lining the streets, like Phaselis’ Harbor Street or Olympia’s road to the Stadium. Others serve to identify the deities, kings, and emperors that fill the sanctuaries and agoras, or the niches of theatres, stadiums, libraries, baths, Nymphaeums, and other public buildings. 

But some inscriptions will surprise many of us. 

For instance, this stele at the Louvre Museum holds the accounts of the Parthenon Treasury. The text covers both sides of the stele made of Pentelikon marble and illustrates how democracy works. Athens’ magistrates submitted the public accounts to the citizens for all to see. The front side, beneath a relief of the Sacred Olive Tree flanked by Athena and the people (demos), displays the expenses for military operations, religious ceremonies, and the Panathenaic festival held in honor of their patron goddess for 410-409 BC. The reverse side has the expenditures for 407-406 BC.

In Butrint, Albania, a striking series of inscriptions is carved on the outside walls of the Roman Theater of Buthrotum, as the city was called in antiquity. 

They are hard to read but worth our attention because these are manumissions, slaves who had gained their freedom for whatever reason. Their sheer number is mind-blowing!

As surprising and revealing are the Edicts on prices! Who would have thought that there were strict rules to define the prices of goods in antiquity! 

The first such example I encountered was at Ptolemais in Libya, proclaimed by Emperor Diocletian in 301 AD.

Also by Diocletian is the Edict on maximum prices for products and labor discovered in Halicarnassus, dated to 301 AD. The Emperor hoped to stave off a financial crisis and prevent inflation. 

Although this tablet was unearthed in Bodrum (the modern name for Halicarnassus), bits of similar Edicts were also found in Pergamon, Aizanoi, Aphrodisias, and Stratonikea. It is quite surprising to read that the Edict from Halicarnassus consists of 37 parts. Part 9, for instance, is about shoes and boots … 27 different kinds and sizes are listed!

Taxes are another matter that deserves attention. One such inscription that is hard to miss can be seen on Curetes Street in Ephesos, close to the Library. 

This tax law was written in the second half of the 4^th century AD, during the rule of Emperors Valentian I, Valens, and Gratian.

Less obvious is Alexander’s tax remission from the wall of the Temple of Athena in Priene, now exhibited in the British Museum in London. 

Alexander contributed to the cost of building the unfinished temple, and in return, he was allowed to dedicate it: “King Alexander dedicated the temple of Athena Polias”. 

This text was followed by a longer inscription setting out the terms of an agreement between Alexander and Priene under which the city was to be exempt from taxation. 

Not all inscriptions were written in Greek or Latin, and I find it fascinating to hunt for these exceptions. 

Having a closer look at Lycia’s sarcophagi strewn throughout the landscape, I discovered texts that seemed to be written in Greek but are in Lycian, as they contain several odd letters that do not exist in the Greek alphabet. Antiphellos and Limyra have good illustrations of Lycian texts.

Another case is to be found in Sillyum, some 25 kilometers northeast of Antalya, an often overlooked site, although the hillside is easily spotted in the otherwise flat plain of Pamphylia. 

It takes some detective work to locate the inscription in the Pamphylian language carved in the doorpost of a Hellenistic building – a very rewarding effort though!

The people of ancient Side also had a language of their own. A small inscription has survived and can be seen at the local museum located inside the remains of the Roman Baths.

After Alexander conquered Lycia and Pamphylia, Greek became the lingua franca, and the local tongues disappeared.

More of What Alexander did for us

Approximately ten years ago, I posted a blog about citrus fruit as introduced by Alexander’s Macedonians from India (see: What Alexander did for us). 

This certainly was not an isolated case if we look at the work of Theophrastus, a contemporary of Aristotle and Alexander (see: Theophrastus, philosopher and botanist). He studied plants that came from Persia, Afghanistan, and the Indus Valley. He introduced the Greeks to mangos, cardoons (or artichoke thistle), jujubes (also called Chinese dates), pistachios, and tamarind. Newly imported plants were cinnamon, banyan (a fig typically from India), as well as frankincense and myrrh. 

One day during his invasion of India in 327 BC, Alexander had bananas for dessert and he enjoyed the fruit so much that he wanted to share it. Eventually, bananas traveled to the Middle East, where they earned their Arabic name of banan, meaning finger. 

Arrian revealed that in 325 BC, Nearchus had found sugarcane. He described it as “a reed that brings forth honey without the help of bees”. In antiquity, sugarcane was basically used as a medicine by Greek and Roman physicians, as documented by Pliny the Elder in the 1^st century AD. 

Rice was another food the king introduced into Macedonia after his campaign in Central Asia, and it appears that the well-known dish of Plov or Pilaf spread from Macedonia, throughout Greece and the Balkans (see: The origins of rice in ancient Macedonia). 

Alexander also introduced Europe to the cotton from India. It is said that the Macedonians started wearing cotton clothes which were more appropriate for the Indian climate. 

The colorful floor mosaic of a parakeet from Palace V in Pergamon now on display at the Museum of Pergamon in Berlin (see: The beauty of Alexandrine mosaics) is a rare example of the wide collection of animals and plants Alexander sent to Aristotle from the regions he conquered. The Alexandrine Parakeet was native to South Asia and Southeast Asia. 

As Alexander traveled to modern-day countries such as Turkey, Syria, Lebanon, Egypt, Iraq, Iran, Afghanistan, and India, he shared his serious interest in local cultures and habits with the rest of the world.

Pergamese offerings

In one of the rooms of the Archaeological Museum in Naples, I am confronted with a group of statues lying on the floor. It looks like dead bodies that collapsed on the spot. The label near the entrance reads Small Pergamese Votive Offering, Roman copy of the 2nd century AD, from a Greek original of the 2nd century BC. 

The scene makes me feel uncomfortable and I don’t know what to think. It looks spooky. I don’t even realize the connection with the site of Pergamon and if there is one I cannot tie it to anything. 

The figures are a little less than life-size and represent an Amazon, a Giant, a Dead Warrior, and a Wounded Gaul. More examples of this group are, apparently, exhibited in the collections of the Vatican and Venice in Italy, Paris and Aix-en-Provence in France. 

The statues fit the imposing reliefs of Gigantomachy and Amazonomachy that surrounded the Altar of Zeus, created by Eumenes II in Pergamon. This Votive Offering is a copy of the original that was placed along the south wall of the Acropolis in Athens in 167-166 BC, probably by Attalus II. 

They represent four battles, two mythical (the Gigantomachy and the Amazonomachy) and two historical (the Battle of Marathon and the one against the Galatians). According to recent research, discoveries near the Acropolis have led to believe that the Athenian votives were originally made of bronze. They may even be copies of a series located initially at Pergamon. The entire composition, which counted at least 50 sculptures, was meant to celebrate the greatest epic battles between gods and men, and the Pergamene victories over the Galatians, who were a constant threat to the Attalid kingdom. 

The Roman copies were based on the Athenian votives and executed in marble. They portrayed only the victors rather than all the characters from the Greek original, which raises the question of establishing the historical circumstance of their creation. From the stylistic point of view, the Neapolitan copies found in the Baths of Agrippa have been dated to the 2nd century AD. 

These votives have been leading a life of their own, and it is not impossible that more of their history will be revealed in the future.

Rare testimonies from the Palace of Pergamon

Pergamon made a clear statement to take a leading position in the Hellenistic world in which the rulers attracted the best artists, architects, and philosophers. 

The Palace of Pergamon and its adjacent rooms must have been a sight for sore eyes considering the magnificence and action displayed on the famous Altar of Zeus, whose remains have been moved to the Pergamon Museum in Berlin. 

On most maps of Pergamon, we find five consecutive rooms initially labeled as Palaces in their own right. Recent studies have established that the so-called Palace V was the main building used for official purposes. The other “palaces” were rooms for the Royal family and the guests, storage rooms, and arsenals. 

The official rooms with their niches and patios would be filled with elegant statues, statuettes, vessels, and other decorative items created by the best artists from Hellenistic times commissioned by the Attalid kings (see: The Attalids, rulers of Pergamon). 

From the reign of Attalus I, 241 to 197 BC, the most striking examples are the statues of the Dying Gaul and the man and woman known as the Galatian Suicide. Both pieces were taken to Rome to adorn the Gardens of Caesar. Also at the instigation of Attalus I, a new architectural feature appeared, the Pergamene Capital (see: About Greek/Roman columns and capitals). There must be proof that at least bits of these capitals are left in situ but I have not found any. I discovered my first examples in North Africa and in particular in Leptis Magna, the city built by Septimius Severus in the 2^nd century AD. 

The reigns of Eumenes II and Attalus II in the 2^nd century BC left us with only a handful of artworks that survived the ravages of time. A rare treasure found in the dining room of Palace V with the Hephaistion mosaic is the dancer or light carrier lady. She is 1.20 meters tall and made of white translucent marble. Her right hand which has not survived is raised and her left hand reaches downwards towards her dress. This elegant beauty has been transferred to the Altes Museum of Berlin. Another lady dancer has apparently been moved to the Archaeological Museum of Izmir and the only available picture is on the site of Livius. 

More telling is the colorful mosaic of a parakeet now at the Pergamon Museum in Berlin (see: The beauty of Alexandrine mosaics) retrieved from one of the two dining rooms of the Palace. Here, another remarkable mosaic was discovered that carried the signature of the artist. His name is Hephaistion, which has nothing to do with Alexander’s friend who lived two centuries earlier. This artist very creatively wrote his name on a label that seemed to be stuck to the floor with sealing wax at its corners, except one corner which was already lifted up. The full inscription can be translated as "Hephaistion made it". 

The balance of the finds in and around the Royal Palace is very meager considering the grandeur and wealth accumulated by the Attalid Kings of Pergamon (see: The Attalids, rulers of Pergamon). It is unclear whether these premises have been thoroughly excavated or if more work remains to be done. I like to believe the latest.

The Attalids, rulers of Pergamon

The Attalid Dynasty of Pergamon started with Philetairos in 282 BC, roughly fifty years after the death of Alexander. 

It remains difficult to imagine the wealth Alexander had accumulated from his conquest of Asia.  The rise of the Ptolemaic and Seleucid dynasties can hardly be compared to that of Lysimachos, who did not draw the best cards. The War of the Diadochi was a very intricate and complex bickering and conniving from which all parties did not profit equally. However, Lysimachos put his share of the booty to good use and his trusted treasury keeper, Philetairos, did the same giving Pergamon the jump start it needed.

The starting date of the Pergamon Dynasty is much later than for the empires of  Seleucos in 312 BC, and Ptolemy in 305 BC founded at the end of the War of the Diadochy. 

Philetairos was a eunuch who had served under Antigonus Monophtalmos. In 302 BC he deserted him to join Lysimachos, the king of Northwest Asia Minor. At the death of Antigonus, Lysimachos rewarded Philetairos for his loyalty by putting him in charge of his treasury (inherited from Alexander) in Pergamon. 

But when Lysimachos, upon the instigation of his wife, murdered his only son, Agathocles, Philetairos joined Seleucos I. Soon afterwards, Seleucos’ forces murdered Lysimachos leaving Philetairos to rule Pergamon until 263 BC. Seleucos granted him great autonomy, which enabled him to expand his territory. Unable to have children of his own, Philetairos had adopted his nephew, the future Eumenes I, who would succeed him in 263 BC. 

One year into his kingship, Eumenes defeated the Seleucid King Antiochus near Sardes, which enabled him to create an independent city-state of Pergamon. Eumenes did not have children either and the throne went to his nephew and cousin, Attalus, who went down into history as Attalus I Soter. Attalus ruled from 241 to 197 BC and many historians still consider him as the founder of the Attalid Dynasty, with Pergamon as its capital. 

The reign of Attalus I was all but peaceful. The Seleucids had lost power over Lysimachos' territories of Pergamon, Bithynia, Nicomedia, and Cappadocia, which gained their independence. Attalus expanded his territory but lost much of it to Seleucos II later on. However, he managed to save Pergamon from the attacks of the Galatians on his northern border and to establish friendly relations with the Romans. That’s how he got involved in the Second Macedonian War (200-197 BC), which opposed the weakening kingdom of Macedonia to Rome, as an ally of Pergamon. Attalus suffered a stroke during peace negotiations in Thebes and was brought back to Pergamon, where he died in 197 BC. 

Eumenes II took over where his father left off but mingling in the affairs of the Seleucids in Syria did not sit well with the Senate of Rome. No reason for Eumenes to be distracted from carrying out his own large expansion program in Pergamon, where he built the unique Great Altar and the massive Library, second only to that of Alexandria. The Romans resented the power and independence Eumenes displayed, which in their eyes reduced their own sphere of influence in Asia Minor. Sadly, although still in his early sixties, Eumenes’ health began to deteriorate, and he appointed his brother Attalus II as a co-ruler. One year later, in 159 BC, Eumenes died. His own son was still an infant, and consequently, Attalus II, who conveniently married his widow, became the new king. He also adopted his brother’s young son, who was to become the future Attalus III. 

Attalus II continued Eumenes’ building projects in Pergamon, this time including the Palace. He also funded the construction of a new temple to Hera Basileia between the lower Agora and the Gymnasium. 

He was familiar with the political situation he inherited. He had no real enemies and was careful to recognize the authority of Rome. Instead of going to war, Attalus II expanded his influence by spending lavish amounts of money on prestige projects. For instance, he contributed to the construction of a splendid Stoa in the Agora of Athens, at the foot of the Acropolis. This is the Stoa of Attalus II, which was restored/ reconstructed by the American School of Classical Studies in the early 1950s. Another Stoa carrying his name was built in Termessos next to the Corinthian temple.

As always, all kinds of taxes were raised to pay for these grand expenses, but Attalus equally improved trade in his kingdom, building markets and safe harbors. He certainly needed reliable access to a harbor, and Attalus attempted to subdue Side. In the wake of this failed attempt, he added part of Pamphylia to his kingdom, where he founded an entirely new port. He named it Attaleia, after himself, i.e., modern Antalya. Attalus II died at the blessed age of 81 or 82 in 138 BC. 

His successor was his nephew and adopted son, Attalus III. However, the new king was not interested in his kingship or in Pergamon. No wonder that he was rather unpopular among his citizens. When he died five years later of disease, he bequeathed Pergamon to Rome, which made it the capital of their Provincia Asia.

Although there may have been one last pretender to the throne, a supposed illegitimate son of Eumenes II, the Attalid Dynasty came to an abrupt end in 133 BC. 

In hardly 150 years, the Attalids had built one of the greatest Hellenistic centers for culture and art, mainly under the reigns of Eumenes II and Attalus II, which still intrigues us.

The end of Pergamon was all but glorious. After being hit by a severe earthquake in 262 AD, its decline was set in motion. The Muslims sacked what remained standing during their raid of 663 AD. More setbacks followed after the conquests by the Byzantine Empire and around 1300 AD by the Ottoman Empire. Slowly, the majestic site deteriorated to the point it was abandoned and forgotten until the first explorers of the 18^th and 19^th centuries rediscovered Pergamon.

The beauty of Alexandrine mosaics

The first time I was confronted with the fine and delicate mosaics created in Alexandria was in Libya. 

Unexpectedly, this was in the eastern city of Ptolemais, seeing the centerpieces of the mosaic floors in the Summer Triclinium of the Palazzo delle Colonne. It was as if I could zoom in time and again to discover ever more details! 

Another striking example was exhibited at the local Museum of Sabratha in western Libya. Here it was a carpet-like mosaic depicting the Triumph of Bacchus. The three central roundels executed in fine Alexandrine mosaics stood out against the otherwise rather rough tesserae of the outer mosaic. The top roundel showed Bacchus, after whom the mosaic was named, followed by a lively lion head and a panther head. 

Another example was presented at the Bozar Museum in Brussels during the Exhibition on Alexandria in 2022. Here the fine centerpiece of the mosaic was a wild Medusa face on loan from the Museum of Alexandria dated also from the 2^nd century AD. 

Scenes of gods and goddesses were very common in antiquity, but it seems that animals were generally introduced by the Romans. 

Lesser known is the panel of a colorful parakeet, one of three centerpieces that decorated a floor of Palace V in Pergamon. This is the only one that made it to the Museum of Pergamon; the other two are lost in the mist of time. 

Now the story of this parakeet requires some extra information. To start with, it has been identified as the Psittacula eupatria, noble fatherland or of noble ancestry. Apparently, it was Alexander the Great who sent the first birds from Punjab to the West, where they were received as exotic pets by the rich and famous of his time. 

The mosaic panel was made in Pergamon in the days of Eumenes II or Attalus II to decorate the so-called altar room of Palace V on the city’s acropolis.

The technique also used the opus vermiculatum meant to emphasize the contours of the bird – a parakeet in this case. To that effect, one or more rows of dark tesserae would be inserted around the subject to enhance the pictorial effect and create an extra contrast or a shadow.   

It is hard to imagine how the artisans of those days were still able to see what they were doing handling those tiny bits of stone, marble, and glass varying between 0.5 to 1 millimeter in size and keeping an eye on the contrast effect at the same time. High-skilled craftsmanship, no doubt.