A few words about Syedra

Syedra was discovered as recently as 1994, but excavations only slowly exposed parts of this ancient port city, a good 20 kilometers south of modern Alanya on the coastal road to Anamur and Tarsus beyond. In antiquity, the city was either part of Cilicia or Pamphylia.
 

I read the name Syedra while visiting the Archaeological Museum of Alanya, before knowing where to look for it. I was struck by its mosaics, clearly Roman and belonging to the 3rd century AD.
 
Archaeological excavations have revealed standard elements of the town, but none show signs of in-depth study. The structures are listed as a street lined with columns, shops, several staircases, remains of a town hall (Odeon?), a temple, a theater, and several cisterns that provided water to the city.
 
On the upper terrace that holds the Acropolis stands a building tentatively identified as a Heroon. Its walls with traces of frescoes welcome the visitor at the end of the colonnaded street. It is not known to whom this shrine was dedicated.
 
Important sections of the city walls display the remains of entrance gates, for instance, on the southwest and western side; the latest being the strongest, which is recognized as the main access to the city.
 

[Picture from Daily Sabah]

Another interesting feature is the Roman Bathhouse, where a large floor mosaic depicts the Twelve Labors of Heracles with life-size human figures. It was excavated in late 2020 and dated to the 2^nd century AD. The rectangular mosaic with an apse-like recess at one end measures 21.95 x 7.92 meters, which would typically fit the layout of a Caldarium. 
 
The reports also mention a statue of Nike, the goddess of victory, that I have not seen at the Museum of Alanya at the time of my visit.
 
By the end of 2025, a huge Stadium from the 2nd or 3^rd century AD was discovered, when Syedra reached its height. It is about 190 meters long and 16 meters wide and can accommodate 2,000-3,000 people. Since it was cut into the solid rock, it remained hidden till now.
 
Researchers also mention some 40 inscriptions on Syedra’s walls providing information about sports and entertainment.
 

At the Museum of Alanya, I had noticed a large inscription in which Septimius Severus praised the city for its bravery and loyalty in resisting the pirates that constantly raided the eastern Mediterranean (see: Exploring Olympos, next to Chimera). In the text from 194 AD, the Roman Emperor underscores Syedra’s “goodwill towards the Romans”.
 
The city also has two Necropolises, one to the northwest and the other to the south, which one day may reveal more important information about its citizens and their burial practices.

Sadly, excavations have not been structured so far, and even the intrepid visitor will have a hard time imagining the layout and monuments that graced this commercial hub and bustling harbor during the twenty centuries of its existence. Syedra was founded in the 7^th century BC and remained inhabited until the 13^th century AD.

The bronzes from Bubon’s Sebasteion

Illegal digs are inevitable and Turkey with its countless antique sites is no exception. A beautiful bronze head of an unknown young man displayed at the Getty Villa has recently been identified as stolen or illegally excavated, and it is heartwarming to hear that it will be returned to Turkey. 

The Getty Museum in Malibu, California, acquired the head in 1971 and it could be established that it belonged to a now-lost life-size figure. It is marked with the letter alpha (the Greek A) at the bottom of the neck. The inlaid eyes, which always add so much character to a face, are missing. 

Dated to the period between 100 BC and 100 AD, the statue's provenance was not documented, although scholars now link it to the archaeological site of Bubon in ancient Lycia. Since the late 1960s, several bronzes have been smuggled out of Turkey from that area. Most depicted Roman emperors and their families but the head at Getty has yet to be identified. 

In October 2023, the New York Times published an article on these bronzes from illegal digs that have been scattered around the world to various private homes and museums. 

By 1967 the looting became apparent and slowly stopped as the Turkish police found a headless bronze torso hidden in the woods near Bubon. This site turned out to be the main source for this unique collection and authorities are determined to track the looters down. 

Bubon has not been systematically excavated and all that remains are a small theater and stadium, as well as an Acropolis. The main building may have been a shrine or Sebasteion, where several bronze statues stood around a U-shaped courtyard that was probably roofed. The Sebasteion may have been started by Nero and his wife Poppea Sabina. His example was followed by eleven emperors and three empresses, the last being Gallienus, who ruled till 268 AD. In the following decades, Bubon suffered from repeated earthquakes which buried and saved the Sebasteion. 

Scholars and experts aim to restitute the group of statues, which represented an important binding factor between the citizens to the power of faraway Rome. 

In the end, the villagers themselves, now in their 60s and 70s, provided the most precious information. They described the statues and their posture and remembered how they were sold. Their plinths with the names of the emperors in Greek are still in situ. 

Lucius Verus apparently stood next to Marcus Aurelius, his adoptive brother and co-ruler. His headless statue may be at The Cleveland Museum of Art and his Bubon origin is now under investigation. 

Septimius Severus was accompanied by his wife and sons, Caracalla and Geta. His headless statue was on loan at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York and has been turned over to the authorities for repatriation. Some experts believe the missing head is kept at the Carlsberg Glyptotek in Copenhagen, Denmark. The head of Caracalla has been seized from the Met and his torso is probably in the hands of a Greek collector. Emperor Valerian stood nearby and his torso is now exhibited at the Museum of Burdur, Turkey. Commodus also had a plinth of his own.

In due time, more emperors will be reconciled with their names on the pedestals and more effigies or body parts will be returned to their rightful spot in Turkey. 

[Top picture from Getty Museum. Lucius Verus is mine taken at the MANN]

Rare testimonies from the Palace of Pergamon

Pergamon made a clear statement to take a leading position in the Hellenistic world in which the rulers attracted the best artists, architects, and philosophers. 

The Palace of Pergamon and its adjacent rooms must have been a sight for sore eyes considering the magnificence and action displayed on the famous Altar of Zeus, whose remains have been moved to the Pergamon Museum in Berlin. 

On most maps of Pergamon, we find five consecutive rooms initially labeled as Palaces in their own right. Recent studies have established that the so-called Palace V was the main building used for official purposes. The other “palaces” were rooms for the Royal family and the guests, storage rooms, and arsenals. 

The official rooms with their niches and patios would be filled with elegant statues, statuettes, vessels, and other decorative items created by the best artists from Hellenistic times commissioned by the Attalid kings (see: The Attalids, rulers of Pergamon). 

From the reign of Attalus I, 241 to 197 BC, the most striking examples are the statues of the Dying Gaul and the man and woman known as the Galatian Suicide. Both pieces were taken to Rome to adorn the Gardens of Caesar. Also at the instigation of Attalus I, a new architectural feature appeared, the Pergamene Capital (see: About Greek/Roman columns and capitals). There must be proof that at least bits of these capitals are left in situ but I have not found any. I discovered my first examples in North Africa and in particular in Leptis Magna, the city built by Septimius Severus in the 2^nd century AD. 

The reigns of Eumenes II and Attalus II in the 2^nd century BC left us with only a handful of artworks that survived the ravages of time. A rare treasure found in the dining room of Palace V with the Hephaistion mosaic is the dancer or light carrier lady. She is 1.20 meters tall and made of white translucent marble. Her right hand which has not survived is raised and her left hand reaches downwards towards her dress. This elegant beauty has been transferred to the Altes Museum of Berlin. Another lady dancer has apparently been moved to the Archaeological Museum of Izmir and the only available picture is on the site of Livius. 

More telling is the colorful mosaic of a parakeet now at the Pergamon Museum in Berlin (see: The beauty of Alexandrine mosaics) retrieved from one of the two dining rooms of the Palace. Here, another remarkable mosaic was discovered that carried the signature of the artist. His name is Hephaistion, which has nothing to do with Alexander’s friend who lived two centuries earlier. This artist very creatively wrote his name on a label that seemed to be stuck to the floor with sealing wax at its corners, except one corner which was already lifted up. The full inscription can be translated as "Hephaistion made it". 

The balance of the finds in and around the Royal Palace is very meager considering the grandeur and wealth accumulated by the Attalid Kings of Pergamon (see: The Attalids, rulers of Pergamon). It is unclear whether these premises have been thoroughly excavated or if more work remains to be done. I like to believe the latest.

Museum of Tripoli, Libya

There are several reasons to write about the Archaeological Museum of Tripoli. It is one of those ‘must-see’ places that sadly are off the beaten track for the average tourist, especially since Gaddafi has been eliminated and the country has not regained its stability. 

I was privileged to visit this wonderful collection just before the outbreak of the Arab Spring, unaware of the quantity and high quality of artwork that awaited me. It must be said that I discovered these treasures on my first day in Libya, and, as always, I should have returned after my tour of the archaeological sites as well. 

Anyway, I took in as much as I could, fully aware that the best pieces from any excavation made their way to the museum in the country’s capital. Tripoli was no exception. 

The bulk of the collection comes from Leptis Magna, second to Rome (see: An introduction to Leptis Magna in Libya). 

The first statues I see are two magnificent Roman copies of Praxiteles’ originals from the 4th century BC. One is the Diadumenos, a young athlete who is tying the ribbon of victory around his head. The other is Apollo-Antinous, hinting at Dionysus, combining the body of Apollo with the head of Antinous, the lover of Emperor Hadrian. Both life-size marbles were recovered from the Baths of Hadrian in Leptis Magna. The arched vaults of these baths from the 2nd century AD have simply collapsed, burying and saving their precious statues in the process. 

Stealing the show is the marble Apollo playing the lyre. He is a little taller than life-size and as true to life as imaginable. Apollo’s delicate hands and fingers seem to strike the strings as he holds his instrument with his left hand and the plectrum in his right. The lyre is intact, except for the strings, and it is a unique opportunity to have a close-up look. His eyes, whose traces of paint make them alive, stare melancholically into the distance. They are a vivid reminder of all the painted statues in antiquity. Apollo’s body is truly worthy of a god. 

The elegant Muse Calliope is sitting nearby, listening carefully to his tune. More remarkable statues gather around Apollo. An unspecified sea goddess is looking up to him, and Mars is standing in a niche behind him. The slender Isis is wearing a diadem, and Venus is very similar to other copies of the famous Aphrodite of Cnidos (see: Was Alexander the Great aware of Cnidos?). Hadrian definitely had an outspoken taste for beauty! 

Another large group of statues and busts is brought together from the theater of Leptis Magna, consisting mainly of Roman emperors: Augustus, Tiberius, Claudius, Marcus Aurelius, Lucius Verus, etc. Even Augustus' wife, Livia and granddaughter, Agrippina the Elder, are present. Upstairs, in the Mezzanine, there is a statue of Faustina, the wife of Marcus Aurelius. 

Inside the theater of Leptis Magna stood a small temple dedicated to Ceres-Augusta, goddess of the harvest – our word for cereal derives from the name Ceres. A seated statue of this goddess also found its way to the museum. 

The goddess Cybele, with the many breasts (or whatever they represent) as worshiped in Ephesos, was unearthed in the sanctuary of the amphitheater. A Roman copy of a Greek original Diana/ Artemis, as displayed at the Louvre in Paris and the Archaeological Museum of Antalya, is also exhibited. 

The Ancient Forum of Leptis Magna yielded a rather damaged Dionysus with satyr and panther, and a headless Lady Fortuna wearing a beautifully draped tunic. 

The museum’s impressive main hall also displays four delicate mosaics from a private villa in Leptis Magna. It dates from the 2nd century AD and depicts scenes of daily life in and around the Nile – hence its name, Villa of the Nile. 

Upstairs, a special room holds the original reliefs of the Arch of Septimius Severus (see: A solid gold bust of Septimius Severus), proof of the political loyalty of the inhabitants of Leptis Magna in the 3rd century. The relief of Septimius Severus standing between his two sons, Caracalla and Geta, was meant to express the good harmony inside the imperial family. Here is also a statue of Caracalla as a child. 

The Cyrene Room has a wooden scale model of the Agora, which, unfortunately, is meaningless unless one has visited the site. Nearby are faceless goddesses believed to represent Persephone from the necropolis of Cyrene. Also, a rare Minerva wearing the Aegis tied to her waist as opposed to her Greek version, Athena, who wears it around her shoulders. She also holds her owl and carries the spear and shield. The statue is carefully carved in pure Greek tradition. 

The Archaeological Museum of Tripoli has a rich collection of mosaics from the 2nd century AD. Many villas were built along the Mediterranean coast by wealthy landowners who loved to show off. One such example is the Roman Villa of Zliten, some 200 km east of Tripoli. It yielded a large floor mosaic executed in a wonderful combination of opus sectile and clearly outlined opus vermiculatum. The central panel is filled with different sorts of fish, and the border with less peaceful scenes of gladiator fights. From the same villa comes the floor mosaic representing the Four Seasons. Tajura is located closer to Tripoli, where another Roman villa from the 2nd century AD has been spotted. A large mosaic with geometric figures and the head of the sea god, Amfitritus, in its center has been removed from the Villa of the Nereids. 

Unfortunately, I did not visit any of these villas since they were usually closed to preserve them. Under the present chaotic regime, I wonder how many of these precious villas have survived the revolt and looting in the wake of Gaddafi’s execution. 

From Ghirza, a Roman fortress near Misrata, an entire Mausoleum from the 4th century AD has been moved to the entrance hall of the museum. It has a strange mixture of different styles that can hardly be defined. 

It is, of course, preferable to leave such constructions and the precious statues and mosaics in situ, but in case of political unrest and war, the artifacts are generally better protected inside the walls of a museum. It so happens that the Archaeological Museum of Tripoli is housed inside the so-called Red Castle of Tripoli. In 2011, following the outbreak of the Libyan Civil War, the museum was closed, but rebels managed to break into the museum and steal a few of Gaddafi’s belongings that were kept in a special room. Previously, the most valuable artifacts had been moved to a safer location. As of 2020, the museum is still closed.

Another gold bust, this time from Switzerland

Some time ago, I wrote about a gold bust of Septimius Severus discovered in Plotinopolis, some 20 km north of Thracian Greece (see: A solid gold bust of Septimius Severus). 

I thought the find was pretty unique, but the Getty Villa just opened a special exhibition around a nearly life-size gold bust of Marcus Aurelius (see: the gold emperor of Aventicum published online in 2023). 

The bust is not made of solid gold like Septimius Severus’ but is hammered from a single sheet of gold. The gold bust was retrieved from an ancient sewage pipe in 1939. It was probably hidden there during a Germanic invasion in the 3^rd century AD. 

Interestingly, the discovery was made at Aventicum, modern Avenches, in Switzerland. The Romans occupied Switzerland as they expanded their empire over the Alps. Julius Cesar defeated the local Helvetii tribe in 58 BC, and soon their land became a Roman Province. 

Aventicum, located between Lausanne and Berne, was built on the site of this Celtic settlement and prospered during the first three centuries AD. In its heyday, it counted as many as 20,000 people, who became Roman citizens assimilating Roman culture. 

The treasures of ancient Aventicum are kept in the Avenches Roman Museum, occupying a medieval tower from the 12^th century near the amphitheater. 

This amphitheater from the early 2^nd century AD could seat 16,000 spectators. It was partially built of stone, i.e., the walls, stairs, and central entrance, but the seating area was made of wood. When it fell into disuse in the 4^th century, the building served as a stone quarry. 

The Roman vestiges counted more imposing monuments, including a theater, a temple where the bust was found, and the Thermal Baths of the Forum. Another striking feature is the Tornallaz, the only tower remaining from the initial 73 of the Roman city walls. This wall was 5.5 kilometers long and counted four gates. 

The gold bust of Marcus Aurelius was found under a temple situated at the center of a large courtyard framed with a Stoa on all sides. According to the available inscriptions, the temple was dedicated to Celtic gods as well as the ruling Roman emperor! 

The museum holds an impressive collection of artifacts such as mosaics and friezes, but also portrait sculptures recovered from the sanctuaries and the public monuments. 

A selection of artifacts, including the gold bust of Marcus Aurelius, is presently exhibited at the Getty Villa in Malibu, California till January 29, 2024. 

[Both pictures are taken from the Getty Villa exhibition link]

Leptis Magna or What Rome must have looked like - Part II

(continued from Leptis Magna or What Rome must have looked like - Part I)

At the end of Leptis Magna's Market, the Cardo continues through a rectangular Byzantine city gate to reach the Old Forum resting on Punic remains. 

This Old Forum automatically triggers visions of what may have been visible in Rome! The square is surrounded on all sides by temples, one for every god that matters, it seems. Immediately to the left is a temple that was converted into a church. Clockwise, followed by a portico and altar to Antoninus Pius, the Temple of Liber Pater, the Temple of Augustus and Rome, the Temple of Hercules, and a stele to Caius, son of Hanno. To the right are the Curia and an Old Basilica, in front of which is a small temple to the goddess Cybele. In the middle of this carefully paved Forum is a Baptistery. 

The sand-covered street behind the Old Forum is an invitation to climb to the dune top, where the beautiful deep blue Mediterranean shines as it has done over the centuries. All is calm! 

Today, the Wadi Lebda is only a small river or a dry riverbed, but in its heyday, it was Leptis Magna's harbor, complete with quays and jetties. We can still see the holes into which poles were inserted and used by the ships to tie their anchor ropes. This port was short-lived. The river had been very skillfully diverted, and several dams were built upstream to prevent the sand from siltting up the harbor. However, the harbor mouth was oriented in such a way that the undercurrent from the sea drew the sand in, and the harbor silted up anyway. Surprisingly, great master builders like the Romans could make such a mistake! 

Yet, this port appears as if it could be used again once the harbor is filled with water! The quay follows the river's course with a curvature towards the sea. There are also downward steps at regular intervals to enable the loading and unloading of the ships. At the head of the peninsula stood a lighthouse. 

In the days of Septimius Severus, an impressive colonnaded street, 420 meters long, ran parallel to the Wadi Lebda from the city center down to Leptis Magna's harbor. 

This Via Colonnata was 40 meters wide and paved with white marble slabs. It was flanked on both sides by a ten-meter-wide portico, reducing the central avenue to 20 meters. The Stoas were supported by 125 grey-green cipollino columns resting on a white marble base and crowned with white marble Pergamese capitals. The red-tiled roofs provided shade in summer and protected the citizens from the rain in winter. It must have been a sight for sore eyes! 

What remains today is a non-inspiring dirt road with bits of columns and carved stones. But the side street provides a helpful visual tool as half a dozen similar cipollino columns still stand tall. 

Behind these columns rises the high outside wall of the Severan Basilica, built by Septimius Severus and completed by his son, Caracalla, in 216 AD. This two-story monument measures 92x40 meters. The hall is crowded with two rows of two-story monolithic columns made of red Aswan granite set on white marble bases and carrying white marble Corinthian capitals. 

Like all Basilicas, this was originally a court of law converted into a church in Byzantine times. Quite unique in the present case is an apse at each end. Both apses are framed by white marble pilasters and half-columns decorated with high reliefs of plants and animals. On the north side are carved figures of Dionysus with satyrs and Maenads, whereas the south side shows the Twelve Labors of Hercules. On a sunny day, the depth of the skilled artwork really shows. In the middle of the apses are two substantial red granite columns with white marble Corinthian capitals topped with griffons that supported the roof. Like all other buildings in Leptis Magna, the walls were constructed using local limestone that was readily available. The roof would be made of wood. There may well have been windows underneath that roof to let the daylight in. At the center of the Basilica, there is also a kind of pulpit that is only partly visible. In an adjacent room on the south side of the Basilica, the Byzantines built a cruciform Baptistery. 

This Basilica is another illustration of the glory of Rome, considering its size, the use of precious marble and granite, and the craftsmanship of the details, of which there are many. 

The Basilica's west side corresponds to the Imperial Forum's short side, the Forum Novum Severianum, a gigantic square of 60x100 meters. The high walls of the surrounding buildings accentuate the size. Originally, a portico ran around the Forum, supported by Pergamese columns as found on the Via Colonnata. They are only visible on the Basilica side, where part of the portico is occupied by a row of shops. 

The beauty of this Imperial Forum may be found among the arches that span the top space between the columns. The area above each column and between the arches is filled with roundels depicting reliefs of the head of Medusa or a Nereid. A row of arches has been reconstructed on the left (long) side of the Forum, resting on Pergamese capitals. In total, at least 73 of these large medallions have been found. All Medusa heads are different and look at you from deeply furrowed eyebrows. A Nereid head is clearly placed at the end of the row. 

Opposite the Basilica on this same Forum stood the Temple of the Gens Septimia, dedicated to the worship of the Septimius family. It is said to have been built following the typical Roman pattern, high on top of a podium, and decorated with columns of red Aswan granite. No wonder this Forum is meant to be a replica of Trajan's in Rome. Septimius Severus' message was clear: his native city could not be inferior to Rome! 

I arrive at the other end of the Via Colonnata, in a vast oval square originally surrounded by the 72 columns of the Stoa. Overlooking this space stood a Nymphaeum several levels high. The back wall was entirely covered with marble, and the many niches were decorated with the most graceful statues. In and around the fountain stood many columns and other marble artifacts. The large water basin that ran alongside the street had several fountains. The scant remains still testify to the monumentality of this construction. 

Opposite the Nymphaeum is the empty space of an unpaved Gymnasium. The adjacent Baths of Hadrian skillfully fill the area towards the Wadi Lebda and the Nymphaeum. 

Those who have seen the Baths of Caracalla in Rome will recognize the sense of grandeur, although the remains of these thick walls are less telling. The bathing areas themselves, however, are better preserved: the Frigidarium, Tepidarium, and Caldarium, all carefully lined with white marble. Unique are the two Sudatoria connected to the Caldarium. This was a kind of sauna where pipes distributed the heat along the walls and under the floor. The complex also had two pools with adjoining latrines, and the pavement consisted of large white marble tiles. 

Unlike Roman constructions elsewhere made with bricks, the local limestone of Leptis Magna was also used for these Baths. Another striking feature is the porches on either side of the Tepidarium, where the sloping walls ensured more efficient air circulation and ventilation. Most statues from these Baths have been moved to the Museum in Tripoli – worth a visit of its own! 

[Read more at Leptis Magna or What Rome must have looked like - Conclusion]

Leptis Magna or What Rome must have looked like - Part I

Much of Roman Leptis Magna is still standing, disclosing monuments such as the Theater, the Market and Forum, the Nymphaeums, Baths, Temples, Arches, and Basilicas. Outside the Byzantine city walls are the large Amphitheater and the Circus. Living quarters are hardly noticeable as they generally remain hidden under the sand. 

The entrance to the site of Leptis Magna is only revealed once we reach the steps leading down to the Roman street level. Here stands the imposing Arch of Septimius Severus, a quadrifrons, an arch with four equal sides. Each side straddles the intersection of the roads, the north-south Cardo leading to the Old Forum and the Decumanus Maximus connecting Carthage to Alexandria. 

Although the Italian archaeologists did their best shifting through the many broken pieces, this reconstructed arch from 202 AD looks different from what one would expect. For instance, the eight peculiar pointed triangles on top of the Corinthian columns are totally out of place. The original marble reliefs in honor of Septimius Severus and his family are copies of the originals at the Leptis Magna and Tripoli museums. It is one of the strangest contraptions I've ever seen! This quadrifrons was clearly meant to impress as it stood on a pedestal three steps above the Roman street level. It is believed to be the work of craftsmen from Asia Minor. 

From here onward, the Cardo is lined with undefined buildings till it reaches two honorary arches. One to Emperor Tiberius and the other to Emperor Trajan. This last one was erected in 109 AD to celebrate his granting the city the status of colonia. 

Next to Trajan's Arch is a large rectangular building, the Chalcidicum. It is surrounded by a portico and flanked on either side by a Nymphaeum. Between them, a series of wide steps leads to a podium crowned with four Corinthian columns. The wall behind these columns is covered with an inscription where the word Chalcidicum appears. The name may refer to the trade of metals or the building's bronze doors. An outer colonnade surrounds this Chalcidicum, erected by a local dignitary during the reign of Augustus in 11-12 AD. 

At this point, my attention is drawn to the many columns standing high on top of a circular wall at the back of the Theater. This Theater is the calling card of Leptis Magna, as it appears in every travel brochure. It is awe-inspiring, with a diameter of 70 meters and its slow-rising rows of seats to accommodate 10,000 visitors. The columns above the seating area have been partially restored to illustrate the connection point of the covered portico that covered the Theater. At its center stood a small temple dedicated to Ceres, a typical Roman concept to bring play and religion together. It yielded a statue of Tyche (Fortuna), which is now at the Museum of Tripoli. 

Of particular interest is the bilingual inscription in Latin and Punic carved on the lintel above the side entrances below the stage. It tells us that this Theater was built during the reign of Emperor Augustus (27 BC - 14 AD) and donated by a wealthy citizen, Annobal Rufus. The Latin text mentions that he was the son of Himilchon and held the position of Consul Suffectus (the consul who completed the term of a deceased consul) and of flamen (priest devoted to the worship of a single god, meaning that he came from a patrician family).

Imp Ceasare Divi f(filio) Aug(usto) pont(ifice) max(imo) tr(ibunicia) pot(estate) XXIV co(n)s(ule) XIII patre pat(riae) Annobl Rufus ornator patriae amator concordiae / flamen sufes praef(ectus) scr(orum) Himilchonis Tapapi f(ilius) d(e) s(ua) p(ecunia) coer(avit) idemq(ue) Dedicavit

Interestingly, the imperial figure of Augustus was left out of the Punic text! 

The Dioscuri and Castor and Pollux statues once stood on either side of the stage. The marble balustrades were decorated with the heads of Heracles and Liber Pater (god of fertility and wine, later identified with Dionysus). Altogether, 133 statues have been retrieved and moved to the Museums of Tripoli and Leptis Magna. The many statues and decorations are indisputable and could rival only Rome. 

Immediately behind the podium of the Theater is a strange trapezoidal square, the Porticus post scaenam, delimited by tall gray granite columns. It surrounds the Sanctuary of the Divine Emperors or Dei Augusti, a shrine to the emperors, who were considered gods after their death. The Monument to the Severans has been added as an extension. 

Unlike the Romans, today's visitors to the Theater can thoroughly appreciate the contrast of the deep blue sea with the many cipollino and granite columns of the Theater and the Porticus. 

Nearby is the Market from 8 AD, an actual luxury square financed by the same Annobal Rufus. The master builder is said to have taken his inspiration directly from Rome, which he had visited. The main attraction here is the twin round kiosks in the middle of the market square. The slabs between the columns served as sale counters for fish, meat, vegetables, and fruit. They look like today's Market, but I can't imagine the unavoidable stench of fish and meat on a blistering hot day like today! Both kiosks were surrounded by octagonal porticos with columns made of cipollino marble with white marble Ionic capitals for the first and Pergamese for the second. We must mentally recreate the now-lost wooden table tops resting on the marble feet in the shape of dolphins. 

Noteworthy are the panels and lists where customers can check the correct measurement of their goods. One such panel shows three standard measures of length: the Punic cubit, which equals 51.5 cm; the Graeco-Roman foot, of 29.6 cm; and the Ptolemaic or Alexandrian cubit, which is 52.5 cm long. All measurements are divided into halves, thirds, fourths, eighths, sixteenths, and multiples. Who would have thought there were strict laws regulating the weights and measures in antiquity? The original panel is displayed at the local museum, but having a copy in situ is worthwhile! There are also large stone blocks with round and square holes where the correct quantity of grain and the like could be checked. Bronze control stamps confirm their official approval. Enough to leave anyone speechless! 

Two tetrapylons with ship reliefs on their base stood between these lovely buildings, once holding statues of the city's wealthy shipowners. Another statue honored a certain Porphyrius, who brought five live elephants to Leptis Magna. Just imagine them walking through here! 

The luxury of Leptis Magna is beyond anything I've ever seen, and I find it hard to believe how Rome could surpass this beauty, grandeur, ostentation, and extravagance. And yet there is more to come. 

[Read further at Leptis Magna or What Rome must have looked like - Part II)