Alexander’s Macedonians introducing rice to Greece

Driving around in northern Greece, roughly between Thessaloniki and Seres on the Turkish border, I often came across rice fields. I couldn’t help wondering whether those rice fields had been familiar to Alexander or if they were of later origin.

It so happens that I lately discussed the Uzbek national dish of plov or palov. In fact, plov is another word for pilaf – rice pilaf. As it turns out, this plov is not limited to Uzbekistan but is widely known all over Central Asia and beyond – from Persia to India. According to the region or the availability, the rice would be enriched with lamb or chicken and a few vegetables such as onions, carrots, chickpeas, and raisins, sprinkled with cumin and saffron. It was and still is an ideal dish for large gatherings like weddings as it can easily be kept warm and ready to serve.

To my greatest surprise, I found an article confirming that it was Alexander’s Macedonians who brought the recipe home after their campaign in Central Asia. From Macedonia, it spread mostly throughout Greece and the Balkans.

It is one of the many foodies Alexander brought to the West. In an earlier blog, I discussed the citron (see: What Alexander did for us) but I’m sure there are many, many more such examples.

But, let’s go back to the pilaf – plov. Whether it is a  legend or not, the story goes that Alexander had his first taste of plov while he was in Maracanda. Some sources go as far as to assume that plov was served during the king’s wedding to Roxane – a very tempting thought, of course.

To make the story even more spicier, some people became inventive and recreated the 2,500-year-old recipe, like this one:

Alexander The Great's Rice Pilaf

Ingredients: ¼ tsp salt, 2 tbs butter, 2 cups chicken broth, ¼ cup chopped onions, and 1 cup uncooked long-grain rice

1) In a saucepan melt the butter over medium heat. Cook the onion in butter for about 3 minutes, stirring occasionally

2) Stir in the rice. Cook for 5 minutes stirring frequently. Stir in the broth and salt

3 ) Heat to boiling, reduce to low. Cover and simmer for 16 minutes. Remove from heat. Let stand for 5 minutes

4 ) Enjoy your piece of culture with some curry chicken

Whatever form or variation you’d try, I am convinced it is a dish you'll love! 

Unique Hellenistic heritage in Pakistan

Alexander’s death triggered the beginning of the Hellenistic era. On several occasions, I lingered on the representations of Buddha in human form (see: Indo-Greek art or the influence of Hellenism on Buddhist art). But that did not happen overnight, of course.

We know that the Graeco-Bactrian King Demetrius invaded India (Pakistan is a modern section of what was India for centuries) in 180 BC. He was the founder of the Indo-Greek kingdom and during his reign the Gandharan art was blossoming.

The first sculptures of Buddha date from that particular period and many great examples have made their way to museums like the Musée Guimet in Paris, the Museum of Ancient Arts in Brussels or the Travelling collection the Museum of Kabul in Afghanistan.

But there is one statue that outshines all others, and it is called the Fasting Buddha. It was discovered in Sikri, Peshawar in Pakistan at the end of the 19^th century and was donated to the Museum of Lahore. It is considered to be a masterpiece from the Gandharan period and probably dates from the 2^nd century BC.

[Picture of the Fasting Buddha at the Museum of Lahore, from Tsemrinpoche]

During his spiritual quest for enlightenment, Buddha tried several ascetic practices which included abandoning all riches and starving himself. He ended this starvation treatment when he realized that he should aim for mental insight instead.

The Fasting Buddha clearly dates from the period prior to this change in attitude when he survived one grain of rice a day. Hellenism contributed immensely to rendering this statue so true to life. The rendition of his skeletal body where each bone is perfectly depicted, his sharp nose, his hollow eye sockets and the gentle folds of his dress, all those features could never look so real had Hellenism not reached the height of that period. He was as close to being mere skin and body as one could achieve.

Staring at the picture with his deep downcast eyes, one has that feeling that he can look at the onlooker at any moment. How much more impressive must it be to stand in front of this magnificent work of art!

However, the Fasting Buddha also displays Persian influences. There is, for instance, the plinth on which the statue is resting. Here devotees with clasped hands are facing a lamp in reverence. This lamp is a reference to the fire-worship of the Zoroastrians.

Lahore is not exactly next door, but the Gandhara Gallery at the museum would certainly be worth the visit as it also houses an extensive collection of Buddhist art. 

I find it quite frustrating that I have seen a (very bad) black and white picture of a niche with a large seated Buddha with next to him a smaller depiction of Alexander the Great looking over his shoulder. I don’t remember in which context and certainly not where this work of art is standing. If anyone knows about this, please share the good news!

Remembrance Day

Each year again the British celebrate their Remembrance Day with great pride. Inevitably my thoughts drift of to Alexander and what he would have thought of this tradition. I truly believe he would have liked it very much. He even would have implemented a similar honorific parade had he lived long enough.

Without Cassander’s cruel rule, the situation in Macedonia would have been entirely different in spite of the Wars of the Diadochi that dragged on for about forty years. The successors in the end ruled over their share of Alexander's huge empire following the king's example. Inevitably, their Macedonian pride could not survive down to the following generations but whoever ruled over Alexander’s home country would have valued him highly. After all, the Macedonians of northern Greece still do. 

In the aftermath of those glorious years, several rulers certainly tried to keep Macedonia on the map. Most noteworthy are kings  like Demetrius Poliorketes (306-286 BC), Pyrrhus of Epirus (306-272 BC), Philip V (221-179 BC) and Perseus (179-166 BC). I'm sure they still held Alexander in high esteem and true to the great example of his troops. They would have found a way to honor those soldiers and to remember them.

In the end, it may be nothing more than wishful thinking because history always takes turns of its own. It is incontestable that the Romans still envied and tried to emulate Alexander but they were foreigners and outsiders, who could never match the greatness of the king who died too young.

ΟΡΝΙΘΕΣ, THE BIRDS. From Aristophanes to Hadjidakis

Aristophanes was a rather prolific comedy writer, who lived from ca. 446 to ca. 386 BC. An amazing eleven of his forty plays have survived and the best-known is probably The Birds created in 414 BC.

The poet was greatly disappointed by the political situation in Athens and the misery of his countrymen at that time. To express his disagreement (and probably his frustration), he composed this caustic protest.

The story is told by two Athenians, who like Aristophanes, are disgusted with the situation. They decide to leave the city. On their way they meet the birds and manage to convince them to create an Ideal State, named Nephelococcygia, somewhere between Heaven and Earth. From there, they’ll rule the world in fairness and in honesty.

The Macedonian kings, including Alexander must have been familiar with the work of Aristophanes. This means that Alexander may very well have attended the performance of The Birds in his home country and maybe even on special occasions while he was in Asia.

Manos Hadjidakis lived more than two centuries later. He was born in Xanthi, Greece in 1925 (his house is still there to visit) and died in Athens in 1994. He wrote songs, sound-tracks for movies, musicals but also a great collection of poems. People outside Greece generally know him from the song Never on Sunday that won him an Oscar, but in my opinion he wrote far better music. Today, he is considered to be one of the greatest songwriters of his time, and certainly so in Greece.

Hadjidakis’ version of The Birds is obviously based on the play by Aristophanes. Initially, the piece was not well received because his music was a kind of urban Greek music called rebetiko. This style is generally described as the popular song of the Greeks, mostly the poorest classes, common from the late 19^th century to the 1950s and 1960s. Hadjidakis managed to create a unique sound, the kind of music that stands alone. And it clearly stands out.

It takes time for our western ears to get used to but eventually, with time and an open mind, it really does grow on you!

The Birds has been successfully performed in concerts, plays and even as a ballet choreographed by Maurice Béjart. Personally, I prefer the orchestral rendition where I can let my imagination run freely. Unfortunately, I have not found it available on YouTube, but I highly recommend the CD released by EMI under the title ΟΡΝΙΘΕΣ, THE BIRDS, ISBN 7243 5 22324 2 0. The music is totally enthralling. To add to the pleasure of the listener, the CD comes with a leaflet containing the lyrics both in Greek and in English.

Among the most interesting Youtube music by Hadjidakis, it is worth to explore these two links 30 Νυχτερινά Μάνος Χατζιδάκις and Ο Μάνος Χατζιδάκις Στη Ρωμαϊκή Αγορά Full Album

Of course, this is a far cry from the kind of music in antiquity as we know it (see: Reconstructing ancient Greek music, an impossible task?). We may wonder what the ancients, including Alexander and Aristophanes would have thought of Hadjidakis  interpretation.

A masterpiece of Hellenistic art

A while ago, the bronze statue of The Boxer at Rest made headlines in The Greek Reporter. It certainly is one of the most lifelike and realistic masterpieces from antiquity that has survived the recycling melting ovens.

Sadly, no picture of this exceptional bronze does any credit to what it truly embodies, neither the whole statue nor the details.

[Picture from The Greek Reporter]

Nowadays, this amazing sculpture is kept at the Museo Nazionale Romano, Palazzo Massimo alle Terme in Rome, Italy. Unfortunately, I couldn’t find out how it is being presented as it certainly deserves a royal space of its own.

I was very fortunate to see it for myself a few years ago in Florence, Italy as part of the exhibition “Power and Pathos, Bronze Sculpture of the Hellenistic World”. The boxer left a deep impression as he commanded attention and respect.

He was placed on the floor like an occasional visitor, unwinding after the intense fight he just went through. His body showed the many scars and cuts left by his opponent. His hands were still wrapped in leather strips meant to protect them but also to inflict as many injuries as possible to his adversary. His oozing wounds colored red with blood (red bronze inserts) illustrated how fierce and unforgiving the fight must have been.

The combat apparently just finished, and the fighter starts to relax. Obviously, the adrenaline is still rushing through his veins and it seems he could jump into fighting mode at the first wrong sparkle from the onlookers. Walking around him, one has to tread with care. He is so life-like that he could look up at you at any moment! (see: A grand collection of Greek bronze masterpieces)

The bronze was found buried in the gardens of the Palazzo Quirinale in Rome in 1885. Admirers of art or lovers of boxing-fights may have wanted to safeguard the statue for better times, whatever their motives or circumstances. We know nothing about the origin of this marvelous boxer. The sculptor remains anonymous and the name of the commissioner, who must have been a wealthy man, is still unknown.

The statue has been dated to 330-50 BC, which is, in fact, the entire Hellenistic era. We have only a few such examples whereas Hellenism must have produced countless numbers of magnificent sculptures. 

With a twist of my mind, I am reminded of the lifelike statues of Alexander and Craterus on a lion hunt that stood in Delphi (see: An unexpected encounter with Alexander at Delphi). It is said that when Cassander visited this work of art and saw Alexander standing in the dim light, he became “so terrified that his body shuddered and trembled” according to Plutarch. Cassander is said to have nearly fainted as the lifelike Alexander undoubtedly stared back at him. Plutarch further adds that it took Cassander a long time to recover.

His fear for Alexander and his wrath must have run very deep. Of course, he had every reason to be afraid. After all, he had murdered Alexander’s mother Olympias, wife Roxane, son Alexander IV, his long-time mistress Barsine and her son Heracles. With so much blood on his hands, one may wonder whether Cassander could sleep at night. He was a profoundly frustrated and evil man and does not deserve any consideration or pity.