Focus on Paphos, Cyprus

Because of its copper mines, Cyprus occupied a prominent position in the manufacturing of armory, swords, and other objects in bronze since early antiquity (see: The role of Cyprus in Alexander’s campaign). As a result, all through history, many kingdoms and empires wanted to control the island. From Persia, Alexander the Great’s Macedonia, the Roman Empire into the modern dispute between Turkey and Greece, Cyprus was envied and fought over. 

First and foremost, Cyprus is the place where Aphrodite was born, so the legend goes. It is unthinkable to visit the island without stopping at the beach where Aphrodite rose from the sea, a spot that is forever marked by a boulder on the seashore. True or not, it is indeed a lovely place to enjoy by sunset. 

This beach is not far from Paphos, which offers many interesting sites worth visiting, especially since it was the first capital of Cyprus in the 4th century BC. By the time Rome annexed the island in 58 BC, Paphos had kept this privileged status till the successive earthquakes of the 4th century AD had destroyed it. It lost its position as capital, and Salamis replaced it. 

It is not surprising that the city of Paphos is rich with antiquities, although it takes some walking around to find them. 

The Agora, the very heart of ancient Paphos, has not much to offer except some foundations delimiting the open space and the surrounding porticos. The west side is best preserved, and it is here that we find the Odeon, which has undergone some restorations to fit various contemporary cultural events. This meeting place dates from the 2nd century AD. 

The theatre, in turn, was built around 300 BC and remained in use till the end of the 3rd century AD. It had gone through several stages of remodeling and renovation over the centuries and knew its heyday in the 2nd century AD when marble slabs enhanced the stage façade. It could seat as many as 8,000 spectators. Excavations are underway, and new information from the Australian Archaeological Mission may be revealed soon (see: Around the theater of Paphos). 

Most popular is the ancient city proper, with its impressive collection of mosaic floors. They all belong to the villas of those rich and famous Romans living in Paphos between the 2nd and 5th centuries AD. These outstanding mosaics representing scenes from Greek mythology are of much better quality and finesse than what we usually find in Roman art after the second century AD. They were created using a combination of tesserae and glass paste. 

The first villa to encounter is the House of Aion, only partially excavated, but it treats the visitor to a most spectacular floor mosaic from the 4th century. It is divided into several panels and shows The Birth of Dionysus, Leda and the Swan, the beauty contest between Cassiopeia and the Nereids, The Judgment of Marsyas losing the music contest to Apollo, and the Triumph of Dionysus. Every composition deserves our full attention since they are considered one of the most exceptional works of its time. 

The next villa is the House of Theseus, built at the end of the 2nd century AD on top of earlier Hellenistic and Roman buildings. This large villa that remained inhabited till the 7th century counted at least one hundred rooms, leading scholars to believe that this was the residence of the governor of Cyprus. Most of its floors have mosaics with geometric patterns, but three rooms stand out with their human figures. The oldest and most striking mosaic depicts Theseus and the Minotaur in a very recognizable labyrinth with Theseus at its center. It dates from the end of the 3rd/early 4th century AD, with major restorations probably carried out after the repeated earthquakes. The mosaic showing Poseidon and Amphitrite was created about a century later and seemed to belong to a bedroom. At the beginning of the 5th century, the reception area got a new mosaic floor where only Achilles’ first Bath scene survived. Another typical floor has a geometrical pattern with at its center a picture of The Three Horaes, goddesses of the seasons. 

Last but not least, the Villa of Dionysus also dates from the end of the 2nd century AD. The severe earthquakes of the 4th century destroyed it as well as much of Paphos. The construction is Graeco-Roman, with the rooms arranged around a central court. Mosaics in vivid colors cover most of the floors, and one blue vase particularly catches the eye. There are many lovely hunting scenes with tigers, bulls, and boars, and a collection of figures set in round and square frames, and, of course, several mythological figures. 

It is important to mention that Christianity settled in Cyprus in the early 1st century AD. We owe this early date to the Roman governor, Sergius Paulus, who converted to Christianity in Paphos. 

Although of a later date, we cannot miss the remarkable Panagia Chrysopolitissa. This massive basilica with seven naves was built with spolia from earlier buildings destroyed during the earthquakes of 332 and 342 AD. Excavations have revealed several geometric mosaics and remains of columns in different types of marble, including cipolin. Because of Paphos' dwindling population, the basilica was reduced in size at some time during the 6th century. By the 11th century, a small Byzantine church, the Agia Kyriaki, was built in the apse of the old basilica. The small church we see here today dates from around 1500 and still functions as an Anglican Church. Not far from the church, we notice the stub of a column, which reportedly is where St Paul was flogged while on his missionary tour of the island. 

Another intriguing place is a large pistachio tree covered with hundreds of pieces of cloth belonging to Agia Solomoni. The tree is said to be sacred and is still used by those seeking to cure eye problems. This ancient catacomb dates from Hellenistic times. 

In the end, Paphos has much more to offer than one we might expect at first sight. It pays off to venture out and about instead of following the beaten path of organized tours.

The Battle of Eurymedon

The Battle of Eurymedon is quite a revelation, for I never heard of it before. I drove along this river on my way from Aspendos to Selge, not knowing that an important fight had taken place here about one hundred years before Alexander marched through this area (see: Selge welcomed Alexander).

After all, my lack of information may not be so surprising as this battle occurred near the end of the Delian League. This was an alliance of various Greek poleis that took shape shortly after the Persian invasion of 480-479 BC and ended at the same time the Peloponnesian War did in 404 BC and which was mainly fought between Athens and Sparta.

The Delian League obviously takes its name from the island of Delos, where the league’s treasury was kept and where the members met on regular set occasions. It is common knowledge that this league was created to take revenge for the Persian invasion of Greece. Still, it also aimed to liberate all the Greeks under Persian domination and guarantee the freedom of the Greek cities.

  

Towards the end of the Delian League, the Athenian statesman Cimon was instrumental in creating Athens’ powerful maritime empire. He was the hero of his time after fighting at the Battle of Salamis. It was a small step to be promoted Admiral and lead the fleet of the Delian League with 300 triremes, of which 200 were Athenian. This was in 466 BC when he set out along the Carian and Lycian coasts to expel the Persian garrisons and to bring those liberated cities into the league.

After taking Phaselis, he set sail for the Eurymedon River, today’s Köprülü River, to annihilate the 200 ships' strong Phoenician fleet that had occupied the river together with several reinforcements from Cyprus. This was Cimon’s most famous battle, and his victory here proved to be definitive. In this phase, he seems to be a precursor of Alexander!

It would have been nice to know where exactly this battle took place, although the mouth of the river near Aspendos sounds to be favorite.

Alexander in Athens

Alexander’s visit to Athens is one of those events that is generally overlooked when reading about his exploits, even by ancient historians.

After the Battle of Chaeronea in 338 BC where Alexander annihilated the Theban Band at the head of his father’s left wing, the young prince went to Athens together with Alcimachus and Philip’s weathered general and most probably senior diplomat, Antipater. Their goal was to negotiate peace with Athens, a highly sensitive matter that required serious political skills. They took with them the ashes of the cremated Athenians from the battlefield, as well as the two thousand Athenian prisoners made at Chaeronea for which no ransom was demanded. They only requested that an Athenian embassy would go to Philip to discuss a mutual peace.

For Antipater, this was not his first mission as envoy of King Philip and not his first mission to Athens either. During earlier negotiations for peace in 346 BC, Athens had sent a heavy embassy of ten men to Pella which was answered by Philip’s usual confusing diplomacy. What Philip really wanted was a treaty of peace and alliance where he and the Athenians were equals, something that probably did not sink in with the Athenians. As soon as the delegation including Philip’s sworn enemy Demosthenes left, the king set off for Thracia. In order to keep Athens on their toes he sent Antipater, together with Parmenion and Eurylochus to the city. Demosthenes, however, convinced the Assembly to go for a Common Peace in which every state was free to join. Antipater bluntly refused, because these were not his king’s terms. In the end, the Athenians and their allies had to comply and they swore their oaths to the peace and alliance to Macedonia.

Now, in 338 BC after the Battle of Chaeronea had ended all parties’ uncertainty whether to side up with Philip or with Athens, these two main players finally agreed on a treaty of friendship and alliance. The Athenians went even as far as conferring citizenship to Philip and Alexander, which by itself was not an exceptional gesture but it shows that they set a step forward in order to please the King of Macedonia. They even erected an equestrian statue of Philip on the Agora.

Unfortunately, we don’t have any details about Alexander’s visit. Was Alexander, only 18 years old, merely accompanying Antipater? Or was Alexander put in charge, upon instructions of his father and coached by Antipater? Or was Alexander’s presence at the negotiations simply part of his education, or maybe his presence added more weight to Antipater’s argumentation? We can speculate at length about any of these theories, but no answer will be conclusive, I’m afraid.

I also wonder where Alexander, with or without Antipater, met the Athenian delegation. The Pnyx is not a likely location for this is where the Athenian people gathered for their own democratic elections, which have nothing to do with foreign policy. The Theater of Dionysus sounds like an appropriate place in my eyes but it may be too large for the assembled company, so the smaller Bouleuterion on the Agora would offer a better alternative. Who knows?

It is pretty safe to assume that while in Athens Alexander walked up the Acropolis. The Parthenon, the Temple of Niké, and the Ereichteion would have shone in their freshly painted flamboyant colors. From there the young prince would have looked out over the harbor of Piraeus only 12 km away and beyond that all the way to the island of Salamis, just as we can today. Whether or not the meeting with the Athenian delegation took place at the Theater of Dionysus, I’m sure he would not have missed the opportunity to attend a play by one of the most popular protagonists at that time.

It is very difficult to look at Athens through Alexander’s eyes, simply because we hardly have any facts to go by. So, I just keep on wondering and dreaming …

More Treasure Finds from ancient Macedonia

It is wonderful news that, in spite of its poor financial state, excavations in Greece are still ongoing. To my greatest satisfaction, the most recent discoveries are coming from the Vergina area, ancient Aegae.

The pieces recovered from five different tombs are very refined, and one of them could have belonged to King Cassander, the bloody ruler of Macedonia who took the Macedonian crown after killing Alexander’s mother, wife, and son(s). Himself being the son of Antipater, Alexander’s regent while campaigning in the east, Cassander married Alexander’s sister Thessalonica, establishing the Antipatrid dynasty. 

Another quite important tomb shows a large underground room whose walls are decorated with garlands of ivy and flowers. Based on the impressive ceramic objects and an iron sword found in this tomb, it can be dated to 420-410 BC and could well belong to King Perdiccas II, one of Alexander’s ancestors, who died in 413 BC.

Yet another Macedonian tomb was discovered showing Doric columns and a façade that is similar to that of the tomb that supposedly belongs to Alexander IV, the son of Alexander the Great.

[Attic lekythoi and Funeral mourning representation found at the Royal Necropolis of Aegae, Vergina. Pictures from Archaeology News Network, Credit: ΑΠΕ-ΜΠΕ/ΥΠΠΟ/STR]

In total twenty tombs were excavated ranging from the 4th to the  3rd century BC . Although these burial sites have been plundered in the past, they still yielded some impressive artifacts.

Further to the south, in ancient Corinth, a hoard of 51 Macedonian gold coins has been found in a cavity in the rocks. The coins featuring Philip II were minted in Pella and Amphipolis in Macedonia, while those showing Alexander the Great come from Amphipolis in Greece, Miletus and Tarsus in Asia Minor, Salamis in Cyprus and from Sidon in Phoenicia. The hoard was concealed shortly after 330 BC when Alexander was still in Asia and a Macedonian garrison was posted in Corinth to protect the isthmus.

[Picture from Pinterest fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net]

The trireme, a ship to remember

The trireme seems to be the most intriguing type of ship built and used in the ancient world. It was, in fact, the most dangerous and effective warship of its time, built for mobility and speed. We know that Tyre had a fleet of triremes when they attacked Alexander to hamper him from working on the causeway to connect the island to the mainland. Arrian clearly states that he “took the quinqueremes and five triremes,” he quickly assembled to meet the Tyrians and eventually “rammed the majority and made them unsailable”.

 [Picture: Greek Reporter]

Triremes were meant to be used as a ramming weapon and were powered by 170 oarsmen arranged in three rows. The bottom row of oarsmen sat hardly 18 inches above the water level, meaning that the ship was not fit to be used in rough weather or to be handled in the open ocean. Yet they were ideal for short battles as they were very fast and maneuverable, a huge advantage during critical encounters. They are known to have been the decisive weapon during the Battle of Salamis in 480 BC when the 371 Greek ships defeated the much larger Persian fleet of 1207 ships.

The first trireme was invented around 700 BC by Ameinocles the Corinthian. It could move fast and under sail under favorable conditions, could even reach a speed of 10 knots. So it is not surprising that these triremes were favorites and were optimized over time to be the fastest ships in antiquity. They were used all over the eastern Mediterranean and the practical Romans sailed them until the 4th century AD.

In the past thirty years or so, there have been a lot of discussions about their shapes, the three levels of oars, and their overall measurements. All we could go by were vase paintings, coins, and pictures of different sculptures, as no wreck was ever found. A few construction details were revealed in ancient texts, like the performances of the rowers or the fact that each oar was handled by one single man. Some building sheds, however, seem to have come to us, providing us with at least the maximum length and beam of a trireme. The length of the oars was a main subject of debate since they plunged into the water from different levels. In the end, a general agreement has been reached to establish the length of a trireme at 120 feet (37 meters). They were manned by 170 oarsmen, of whom 31 sat on the top row, 27-29 on the middle and bottom rows.

By the end of the last century, the debates flared up, and eventually, a Trireme Trust was created in 1982 to rebuild a full-size ship. It took about five years to launch the prototype, which was baptized gallantly as Olympias. I like to believe that was in honor of Queen Olympias, the mother of Alexander the Great but I couldn’t find any evidence to support my assumption. The modern replica was born in the shipyards of Piraeus using Oregon pine since adequate Greek pine had declined and was not expected to stand up to the strains. Some 20,000 wooden wedges were used to connect the hull planks, which, according to tradition, were made of beech wood, while the required 25,000 bronze spikes were all handmade. The ramming front was made of cast bronze in two separate pieces. The sails, on the other hand, were made of linen in Scotland, the only place capable of making such sails.

By 1987 sea trials were carried out in the Saronic Gulf around the island of Poros (1 day), in 1988 with a voyage to Methana and the subsequent circuit of Poros (1 day), in 1990 around the coast to Porto Heli when speed records were reached (5 days), in 1992 the first trireme passage through the Canal of Corinth was achieved and the longest voyage to Corinth, via Aegina and Salamis (6 days) and in 1994 the Olympias was used for public relation purposes with several Greek film crews. Remarkably, the ship even sailed up the River Thames in 1993 to mark the 2,500th anniversary of Greek democracy (I wonder why democracy had to be celebrated in London?).

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All these trials led to interesting conclusions in spite of the opposition by the purists who thought that any reconstruction should be based on an archaeological wreck, of which none exists. The Olympias sailed under favorable conditions in a sprint under oar at a speed of 9 knots (very close to the 10 knots mentioned above), while she was rowed continuously for more than 30 miles at a cruising speed of close to 6 knots. She turned out to be extremely maneuverable, and a lot of practical information was gleaned during these trials about the practicalities and logistics of using both oar and (square) sail.

The story of the Olympias has been dormant since, but suddenly I hear that scientists believe to be close to tracing the wood from which these ancient triremes were made. They are actually focusing on the Macedonian fir and pine tree of Olympus in the Pieria area, southern Macedonia, Greece, because their wood, locally known as “liacha” has no knots but is very resistant to salt water. This theory is based partly on Theophrastus, Aristotle’s successor, who recorded that these trees were used in the construction of paddles and ships, and partly on the results of archaeological excavation that were carried out in Methone in 2003. Since 2011, scientists from Greece have been joined by those from the USA, Britain, and Ireland in a collective effort to discover pure pieces of wood from the 8th century at the excavation site of Methone. I can hardly wait for the results of this study, especially since this city is part of Alexander’s homeland!

[Picture from Daily Mail]

Meanwhile, more exciting news comes from recent diving expeditions off the east coast of Sicily near the Egadi Islands, where ten bronze ship-rams have been discovered together with a variety of arms and utensils. The site is where the last battle of the First Punic War (241 BC) was fought between Carthage and Rome, which was won by the Romans thanks to their smart planning. The ten rams, each weighing as much as 125 kg, were mounted on the bow of the triremes or quinqueremes to be used to simply ram the enemy ship to pieces. This find is quite significant considering that till now only four rams have been recovered for all antiquity. Follow the latest developments on The Archaeology News Network. Another interesting article appeared lately in the Daily Mail. 

About Greek theater plays

Whoever travels to Greece or Turkey cannot miss the ever-present remains of antique theaters, all in relatively good condition.  

The origin of theater tragedies goes back to the 6th century BC, thanks to the feasts that were held in honor of Dionysos, the Dionysia. For the first time in 534 BC, they are considered a permanent program element. Theaters are no longer exclusively used for religious performances but have become the place where the lives of heroes and half-gods are related. The tragic poet is the most essential element. He not only writes the tragedy but also expresses his songs as an actor, accompanied by 12-15 singers and dancers.

Aeschylus (525-456 BC) is the first author to break traditions by introducing a second actor to create a dialogue between two people. Although the choir is still essential, it is now pushed to the background. In those days, we discovered a difference between light comedy and tragedy, which treated the conflicts between men and the gods.

A third actor is introduced by Sophocles (405-406 BC), enabling the creation of intrigue between the other two persons. The choir at this stage serves only to support the action. When in 460 BC, Sophocles stops performing, an actual separation between writing theater plays and acting occurred.

The third playwriter was Euripides (ca. 480-405 BC), who spent several years at the Macedonian court in the days of King Archelaus, where he died. He must have written more than ninety plays, of which at least 20% have come to us more or less complete. His fame is because he actually wrote dialogues that sounded like spontaneous conversations instead of carrying the ritual contexts from older plays. In his lifetime, most of his public did not appreciate this "modern" style. Only after his death did he become the favorite of Athenian theaters.

It is evident that Alexander grew up with theater plays, as his father before him, as well as his ancestors, who all loved to watch a good play. From 449 BC onward, the Greek States chose plays with three main actors: the principal role was performed by the Protagonist, who in turn hired the supporting actors, i.e., the second actor, the Deuteragonist, and the third actor, the Tritagonist. The choir was not composed of professional actors but of civilians appointed by the city. The principal actors, however, were also allowed to compete for prizes in special competitions. The peak of acting was reached in the fourth century BC, and actors even became more important than playwriters. The most famous players went so far as to adapt parts of the play to match their egos or ambitions. In the heyday, actors were exonerated from taxes and military service. Thanks to their popularity, they enjoyed the admiration and protection of kings and the social elite. In return, the kings and the nobility entrusted them with significant political and diplomatic missions, by which the actors could make history away from the theater.

We will remember the Pixodarus affair when Alexander asked the tragic actor Thettalus to plead in his favor with the Carian satrap for his daughter's hand. By this maneuver, Alexander hoped to thwart his father's plan, who had offered his retarded son, Arrhidaeus, Alexander's half-brother, in marriage to the infant daughter of Pixodarus of Caria. Because of their political immunity, actors were often asked to act as mediators with rulers or politicians, and Alexander knew how to exploit that possibility. This time, however, Alexander had to pay a high price for interfering with his father's plans, as King Philip banished all Alexander's friends from Macedonia except Hephaistion.

In the summer of 331 BC, when Alexander installed himself temporarily at Tyre after leaving Egypt, he organized a grand celebration in honor of Melqart-Heracles. The kings of Salamis and Soli, who sponsored the event, hired the most celebrated actors of the day, including evidently Thettalus, who by now had become a personal friend of the king. Unfortunately for Alexander, Thettalus did not win the contest.

The same actor was again invited by Alexander in 324 BC when he organized the mass wedding in Susa, where he married the Persian princess Stateira (or Barsine). Her sister, Drypetis, was given to Hephaistion. Alexander's close companions were all married to girls from high Persian nobility. Eighty other couples shared the feast in a wonderfully idealistic dream to bring East and West closer together.

Stagira, the Birthplace of Aristotle

The name of Stagira sounds like magic, for it is the birthplace of no one less than Aristotle! Aristotle was born here in 384 BC. His father, Nikomachos, had been the doctor for King Amyntas III of Macedonia, the grandfather of Alexander the Great. Yet, both his parents died while Aristotle was still young, and he was adopted by a relative. At 18, he went to Athens, where he studied at Plato’s Academy for twenty years, i.e., till Plato died in 347 BC. Meanwhile, he founded his own school in Assos (Troas in today’s Western Turkey), and three years later, he moved to Lesbos where he met Theofrastos, who was to be his successor at the school in Athens. In 343 BC, King Philip II invited him to Pella to provide proper schooling for his son, Alexander. When his task was finished three years later, Aristotle withdrew to Stagira till he returned to Athens in 335 BC, founding his own school, the Lyceum, where he worked for the next twenty years. Being accused of impiety after the death of Alexander the Great, he moved to Chalcis, where he died only 63 years old. Tradition has it that a year after his death, the people of Stagira officially had his remains transferred to be reburied in their city…

If you look for the city of Stagira on today’s map of Greece, you’ll be directed soon enough to the peninsula of Chalcidice in eastern Greece. But surprisingly, that is only a modern town, whereas the historic site of Stagira lies some odd 30 km to the east, just below Olympiada on the shore of the Aegean Sea. I found out that an excellent way to pinpoint the site is to use the Wikimapia layout of Google, which gives the traveler plenty of detailed information besides the satellite image.

I’m leaving Thessaloniki in the early morning, heading straight east over the old road to Kavala, past Alexandroupoli, and eventually to Istanbul. Most trucks and heavy traffic opt for the new freeway that skirts Lake Koroneia and Lake Volvi on the north side, making my drive along the southern side most pleasant. On my right lay the rich wooded hills of Chalcidice in a full array of green dotted with the yellow broom and a wealth of flowers in the cleared fields. In the wind-still morning air, the lakes peacefully reflect the clouds and their harvest of reeds and other water plants. Of course, my thoughts drift off to Alexander, who has marched his army along the opposite shores on his memorable conquest of Asia. Before him, his father, Philip must have followed either side during his many battles while creating the coherent Macedonian kingdom he left to his son after his assassination. In antiquity, this part of Chalcidice was rich with silver mines, and the towns I crossed could tell me many stories. It seems, however, that they have stopped in time. Life evolves at a different pace in this part of Greece.

At Stavros, I take a right turn south to the settlement of Olympiada, a pleasant village of about 650 inhabitants built by refugees expelled from Aghia Kyriaki, Turkey, in 1923. According to oral tradition, Queen Olympias was exiled here by Cassander. Still, from the historical point of view, this story is incorrect, for, in reality, she was exiled to Pydna. The new settlers called their city Olympiada in honor of Alexander’s mother based on this tradition. Its beautiful beaches of fine white sands and clear waters are now favored by tourists from Germany and Bulgaria, but presently in the second half of May, it is still tranquil and unspoiled. At the end of the village, I find a cozy harbor with a dozen fishing boats, overseen by an orthodox chapel with easy access from either the sea or the road to Ouranopoli. This main road also takes me up to ancient Stagira, signed and fenced with space to park my car.

All is quiet here. Except for the rustling of the wind through the low trees and the songs of many birds, all I hear is my own breathing. A rough track runs upwards from the entrance gate between bright honey-sweet broom shrubs – a feast for the eye till I reach the old city walls. A big map offers what seems to be a leisurely walk around the place, but it soon turns out to be a more difficult one as I venture into the dense shrubs and bushes.

Stagira was built over two successive hills and was defended by the wall I’m facing, protecting its people not only from the land side but also from the seaside. In its heydays, roughly between 500 BC and 350 BC, this wall was two kilometers long and often as thick as two meters. Although it has been nicely restored or probably just because of this, the wall is clearly visible in the landscape from afar.

The city was founded around 655 BC by colonists from the island of Andros and later from Chalcis. Like the rest of Greece, they were involved in the Peloponnesian War in 424 BC, becoming an ally of Sparta but changing camp soon after to take the side of Athens. Like many other cities on the peninsula, Stagira joined the Chalcidian League, whose seat was in Olynthus (which I’m also visiting). But then Philip II set off on his expansion conquests of Macedonia, and he is the one who besieged Stagira in 349 BC and thoroughly destroyed it in the process. When he hired the services of Aristotle to serve as a tutor for Alexander, he may have promised to rebuild the city as part of his (re)payment, but it never recovered its previous wealth. In this context, I definitely wanted to visit Stagira, of course.

The remains of the city walls are awe-inspiring, to say the least. It is interrupted by several watchtowers, only three being round. I’m standing right next to such a round tower as I enter the city through an opening close to the Acropolis. The view I discover all along the coastline is beyond my expectations. It is a mixture of memories from the Costa Brava when I look south in admiration for the strategic choice when I see Olympiada and its harbor at my feet. The day is hazy, but I can oversee quite a stretch of coastline to the north and northeast within visual contact of Amphipolis and the Strymon delta. I have visions of the Athenian corn fleet, for instance, keeping close to the land as it made its way back home, maneuvering from one port to the next. Or how about seeing the enemy or pirate ships approaching from up here? There is nothing wrong with my imagination, of course!

Strangely enough, the structures of these stone walls vary a lot, and I don’t understand why. To the right, the wall is built in the rough Lesbian or polygonal style. In contrast, the round tower and the left part of the wall are set up in the so-called “Egyptian style,” using square and rectangular blocks of different sizes and materials (limestone and marble) alternating with dark flat stones – with surprising effects. It seems that some parts of the original walls still stand up to four meters tall.

I try to stick to the path as I visualize it from the billboard at the entrance, but there are too many side tracks and no indication to reach the next site of interest. I follow my gut feeling, passing by several ruins of Classical and Hellenistic houses from between the 5th and 3rd century BC until I reach the open space at the very heart of the city, the Agora. Here I am confronted with an unusual rectangular public building measuring 26 x 6 meters, indicated as a Stoa, although it was a hall used for public debate. It had three closed walls around which a simple stone bench was set, while the one open long side faced the Agora. A broad staircase, although placed off-center, marked the entrance. The Stoa was covered by a roof held up by a row of eight columns aligned in the middle of the construction. Sadly only the foundations have survived, and it takes some imagination to picture it in full glory. In front but to the side are remains of a small altar, and on the other side of the market place those of a water cistern. The shape of this Agora is somewhat random as if the space has simply been used to the best of the possibilities without any basic pattern.

To the right begins a paved street, Greek in as far as I can judge, passing along several storerooms. These are relatively small rooms, one containing the remains of three large jars stuck into the floor and a larger clay basin probably used for storing cereals. The next room reveals two large elongated holes chiseled in the rock (more or less in the shape of a boat) with several cavities in which most probably large earthen jars could stand. A remarkable sight, I must say.

My path leads me past the Byzantine wall from the 10th-11th century, which cuts the old city in two and is made of all sorts of materials – typical Byzantine if you ask me, for they were master recyclers avant-la-lettre. But underneath, archaeologists have discovered remains of the archaic city wall from the 6th century BC. Amazing how this city limit was being used and reused after 16 centuries! Halfway through that straight wall rises a big square tower and surprises me with full-size flooring made of inlaid marble; the open rectangular space in the center of the room seems to indicate the place for an altar, possibly dating back to the 6th century.

Descending the peninsula's southern edge, I stop several times to take in the scene, picture-perfect views into the successive coves and beaches. Close to the beach, the dense growth gives way, and I stare into the remains of walls and rooms clearly sunken under sea level. What an exciting discovery! From here, I reach what appears to be the oldest part of Stagira, where an archaic Sanctuary (6th century BC) and late Classical walls have been exposed. Well, that is what the books say, but honestly, I can’t determine what is what. I climb to the top of this northern hill crowned with more Byzantine buildings and walls that seem to have been built one on top of another without a clear pattern. However, a very delicate and promising piece of cornice from this sanctuary can be seen at the Museum of Polygyros in Chalcidice.

It is midday, and the air is becoming pretty hot. Luckily, I took enough water with me. Yet I’m dying for a cup of coffee – maybe in neighboring Olympiada? I leave Stagira over what turns out to be the long way which offers a magnificent last view of the city walls down to the cafés and restaurants along the seashore. I find a quiet and shady table at the edge of the sandy beach where the hotel restaurant owner has set up a large white tent decorated with shells and crudely crafted maritime items painted in lively colors. What a breather! I sit back to stare over the peaceful sea and blue sky. All is well, and the café frappé is exactly what I needed.

After collecting my breath and my brains again, I decided to drive south over a green road on the map to Ouranopoli, which is as far as the road would take me because the remaining section of the peninsula is the property of the monks reigning over the Athos Mountains. From above Olympiada, I make a last stop to admire the tiny island of Kapros, stretching a good two kilometers from the shore. Kapros means “boar” in Greek, which is indeed what it looks like. Even in antiquity, the resemblance had not gone unnoticed, for Stagira’s silver drachmas all carried the image of a boar …

I drive through Stratoni and Ierissos to Nea Roda, where I hope to see traces of the canal dug by King Xerxes I of Persia in 480 BC. Persian conquests and occupation have been a reality over the centuries, yet when we read about it, we tend to brush over the names and dates to return to the history of Greece as we like to see it. Just try to picture Iran occupying Turkey and invading Greece – not very likely, but Iran was Persia and mighty powerful in the 5^th century BC. We should not forget that Persia had often interfered enough in Greece’s internal affairs until Alexander the Great reversed the odds.

The fact remains that in 492 BC, King Darius I of Persia sent a large army and fleet across the Hellespont to invade mainland Greece. This fleet, which was following the land army closely, was destroyed by a storm at the promontory of Mount Athos. Three hundred vessels were lost, and 20,000 men drowned. In the spring of 490 BC, Darius tried again. Heading for Athens, however, he was decisively defeated at the Battle of Marathon, putting an end to his Persian conquests - for the time being. New plans were drafted, but Darius died in 486 BC before he could execute any of them. It was his son Xerxes I who took over and who personally led the Second Persian invasion of Greece in 480 BC with one of the largest armies ever assembled. Xerxes had learned from Darius’ disastrous naval experience of 492 BC and ordered a canal to be dug through the narrow of the Athos peninsula, which is only two kilometers wide. This was probably one of the most significant engineering assignments of its time, shortcutting the long sailing route around Mount Athos. This is the place I want to see for myself.

But – to conclude my summary of the Persian’s role at this time in history – this didn’t mean a complete victory of the Persians over the Greek city-states, for even after being victorious at the Battle of Thermopylae, the Persian fleet suffered a severe defeat at Salamis. A year later, the Greeks united against the Persians and finally halted the enemy invasion at the Battle of Plataea. View Larger Map

Preparing for this wonder of the world, I searched for traces of the digging on satellite pictures, but the line of the old canal was very vague. The land is relatively level with only a few low hills before rising again towards Mount Athos at the very tip of the peninsula, but if one looks carefully, there is a dark green line of trees where this canal once ran through the land from east to west. Somewhere along the modern road, which more or less follows its tracé from Nea Roda to Trypiti on the other side of the narrow, I pass a giant billboard that confirms that I have arrived in the area. Exciting to be here at last but rather disappointed that there is so little left to see.

Since I got this far, I decided to continue to Ouranopoli, which promises beautiful sandy beaches and an old Byzantine fort at the threshold of the Athos monasteries, which are off-limits anyway. Exotic villas and plush hotels line the road into the city, which turns out to be thoroughly spoiled by the tourists. One souvenir shop next to the other, one fast food place stuck to the next with bawling music filling the air. I take a quick picture of the lonely but commanding fort squeezed between the harbor for fake pirate ships and a modern parking lot and turn back in search of peace and quiet. I find such a spot back again in Olympiada as I decide to take my evening meal at the same place where I tasted the coffee earlier in the day. Blissful scenery and delicious Greek food crowned with their local krassi – what more could I ask for…

By now, it is time to investigate the modern city of Stagira, where I am told there is a park dedicated to Aristotle and his works called “the Natural.” At this hour, I’m fortunate enough to have the park to myself, allowing me to investigate the several instruments that illustrate the phenomena of nature. A shiny white marble statue of Aristotle inspired by works from antiquity oversees the lovely park.

I take my time and stop at each construction: the parabolic reflectors (reflecting even a whisper from one to the other); the sundial (which also gives the month of the year); a huge lens (to prove the focusing of energy); a large compass (to illustrate that Aristotle's philosophy is universal); the pentaphone (five slabs of granite that produce a sound close to that of the ancient scale of pentaphone); two series of optical disks (whose designs, when set in motion, blend together to form another pattern); inertia spheres (the shock of one sphere is gradually carried forward from the first to the last sphere); a pendulum (where the oscillation energy of one element is transferred to the other two); and finally the water turbine (when cranking the lever, one can create a swirl in the water column similar to that of a tornado). It’s fun, I can assure you! At the far end of the park, I try my luck at the telescope focused on the Athos peninsula, but it is out of order. I take a picture in Zoom instead, with low hopes for the outcome since, as said before, this is not exactly a clear day, but in the end, I get a glimpse of the illustrious Mount Athos! Saying my goodbyes to Aristotle, I can’t help thinking he is happy here.

The drive back in the low evening sunshine will stay with me forever. The road takes me right across the middle of Chalcidice, another green route on the map. I am under the charm of the lush wooded hills with a wide variety of trees and shades of green. At times the blooming broom bushes on either side of the road are touched by the delicate sunrays and metamorphosed into pure gold. I hardly meet another car or traveler on this long drive of more than 100 km back to bustling Thessaloniki – lucky me!