Focus on Paphos, Cyprus

Because of its copper mines, Cyprus occupied a prominent position in the manufacturing of armory, swords, and other objects in bronze since early antiquity (see: The role of Cyprus in Alexander’s campaign). As a result, all through history, many kingdoms and empires wanted to control the island. From Persia, Alexander the Great’s Macedonia, the Roman Empire into the modern dispute between Turkey and Greece, Cyprus was envied and fought over. 

First and foremost, Cyprus is the place where Aphrodite was born, so the legend goes. It is unthinkable to visit the island without stopping at the beach where Aphrodite rose from the sea, a spot that is forever marked by a boulder on the seashore. True or not, it is indeed a lovely place to enjoy by sunset. 

This beach is not far from Paphos, which offers many interesting sites worth visiting, especially since it was the first capital of Cyprus in the 4th century BC. By the time Rome annexed the island in 58 BC, Paphos had kept this privileged status till the successive earthquakes of the 4th century AD had destroyed it. It lost its position as capital, and Salamis replaced it. 

It is not surprising that the city of Paphos is rich with antiquities, although it takes some walking around to find them. 

The Agora, the very heart of ancient Paphos, has not much to offer except some foundations delimiting the open space and the surrounding porticos. The west side is best preserved, and it is here that we find the Odeon, which has undergone some restorations to fit various contemporary cultural events. This meeting place dates from the 2nd century AD. 

The theatre, in turn, was built around 300 BC and remained in use till the end of the 3rd century AD. It had gone through several stages of remodeling and renovation over the centuries and knew its heyday in the 2nd century AD when marble slabs enhanced the stage façade. It could seat as many as 8,000 spectators. Excavations are underway, and new information from the Australian Archaeological Mission may be revealed soon (see: Around the theater of Paphos). 

Most popular is the ancient city proper, with its impressive collection of mosaic floors. They all belong to the villas of those rich and famous Romans living in Paphos between the 2nd and 5th centuries AD. These outstanding mosaics representing scenes from Greek mythology are of much better quality and finesse than what we usually find in Roman art after the second century AD. They were created using a combination of tesserae and glass paste. 

The first villa to encounter is the House of Aion, only partially excavated, but it treats the visitor to a most spectacular floor mosaic from the 4th century. It is divided into several panels and shows The Birth of Dionysus, Leda and the Swan, the beauty contest between Cassiopeia and the Nereids, The Judgment of Marsyas losing the music contest to Apollo, and the Triumph of Dionysus. Every composition deserves our full attention since they are considered one of the most exceptional works of its time. 

The next villa is the House of Theseus, built at the end of the 2nd century AD on top of earlier Hellenistic and Roman buildings. This large villa that remained inhabited till the 7th century counted at least one hundred rooms, leading scholars to believe that this was the residence of the governor of Cyprus. Most of its floors have mosaics with geometric patterns, but three rooms stand out with their human figures. The oldest and most striking mosaic depicts Theseus and the Minotaur in a very recognizable labyrinth with Theseus at its center. It dates from the end of the 3rd/early 4th century AD, with major restorations probably carried out after the repeated earthquakes. The mosaic showing Poseidon and Amphitrite was created about a century later and seemed to belong to a bedroom. At the beginning of the 5th century, the reception area got a new mosaic floor where only Achilles’ first Bath scene survived. Another typical floor has a geometrical pattern with at its center a picture of The Three Horaes, goddesses of the seasons. 

Last but not least, the Villa of Dionysus also dates from the end of the 2nd century AD. The severe earthquakes of the 4th century destroyed it as well as much of Paphos. The construction is Graeco-Roman, with the rooms arranged around a central court. Mosaics in vivid colors cover most of the floors, and one blue vase particularly catches the eye. There are many lovely hunting scenes with tigers, bulls, and boars, and a collection of figures set in round and square frames, and, of course, several mythological figures. 

It is important to mention that Christianity settled in Cyprus in the early 1st century AD. We owe this early date to the Roman governor, Sergius Paulus, who converted to Christianity in Paphos. 

Although of a later date, we cannot miss the remarkable Panagia Chrysopolitissa. This massive basilica with seven naves was built with spolia from earlier buildings destroyed during the earthquakes of 332 and 342 AD. Excavations have revealed several geometric mosaics and remains of columns in different types of marble, including cipolin. Because of Paphos' dwindling population, the basilica was reduced in size at some time during the 6th century. By the 11th century, a small Byzantine church, the Agia Kyriaki, was built in the apse of the old basilica. The small church we see here today dates from around 1500 and still functions as an Anglican Church. Not far from the church, we notice the stub of a column, which reportedly is where St Paul was flogged while on his missionary tour of the island. 

Another intriguing place is a large pistachio tree covered with hundreds of pieces of cloth belonging to Agia Solomoni. The tree is said to be sacred and is still used by those seeking to cure eye problems. This ancient catacomb dates from Hellenistic times. 

In the end, Paphos has much more to offer than one we might expect at first sight. It pays off to venture out and about instead of following the beaten path of organized tours.