Into the Plains of the Danube River

After their fierce battle at Mount Haemus (modern Shipka Pass in Bulgaria at 1150 meters), i.e. the major thoroughfare from Philippopolis to Gabrovo and Veliko Tarnovo, the road was open for the Macedonians.

Alexander’s next goal was the Triballi who lived south of the Danube. On his way north, he crossed the Lyginus River (modern Yantra) near Veliko Tarnovo. It is here, according to Arrian, that the bulk of the Thracians sought refuge on an island in the river as soon as the Macedonians had passed through. When the young king heard the news, he reacted in a way that became so characteristic for him in the years to come: he retraced his steps to face the enemy head-on. He managed to dislodge the unsuspecting Thracians and ran them down. As a result, 3,000 of them were killed but many escaped through the dense woods.

At this point, Alexander was only three days' march away from the Danube. On his way through the broad fertile Danube plain, he captured several Triballi strongholds before reaching Odessos, modern Varna on the Black Sea. Today, these flats are covered with endless fields of sunflowers, and colorful patches among the gold of the harvested cornfields. One may wonder whether sunflowers were cultivated back in antiquity but it turns out that the plant is native to North America and thus arrived much later.

Odessos is one of the many colonies founded by Miletus around 585-550 BC which functioned according to the Greek administrative pattern (see: The many colonies of Miletus). It was an important trading hub exchanging goods with Asia Minor and the Greek islands as well as with the Thracians living inland. Odessos proudly resisted the siege of Philip in 339 BC but on this occasion was taken by Alexander. The town flourished later on when Lysimachos ruled over Thracia after Alexander’s death.

Today’s treasure of Varna is to be found in its Archaeological Museum with the precious artifacts recovered from the so-called Varna Necropolis. This burial site counted 294 graves from 4600-4200 BC and has yielded some of the world’s oldest gold which is exquisitely exhibited – a must-see!

This is just a parenthesis as Alexander marched on to dislodge the Triballi and the Thracian tribes who with their wives and children had taken refuge on Peuce Island at the mouth of the Danube.

Memorable clash at Mount Haemus

Once his succession to the throne was secured and he had taken care of his father’s funeral, all Alexander wanted was to start his Asian campaign. But having learned that the Triballi and the Thracians were on the warpath he had no other option than to change his plans.

In spring 335 BC, he marched to Mount Orbelus, crossed the Nestos River to reach Mount Haemus, apparently ten days after he had left from Philippi.

Mount Haemus is the modern Balkan Mountain Range which is a 700 km-long spine running east-west through Bulgaria. It is here that the Thracians awaited the Macedonians, holding the major thoroughfare from Philippopolis to the north. This pass is better known by its modern appellation, the Shipka Pass situated at an elevation of 1150 meters. Few people in Bulgaria are aware of Alexander’s daring confrontation but rather remember the pass for the more recent battle they fought with the help of the Russians against the Ottoman Empire in 1877-78. In the 20^th century, an ugly monument was erected on this spot to commemorate the liberation of Bulgaria. The Bulgarian-Orthodox Church with its gold-covered onion shaped steeples is a far nicer marker to remember the soldiers who died for their country. 

Alexander’s encounter with the determined Thracians was one of his masterminded confrontations. A large enemy force was awaiting him at the top of the narrows. The Thracians had hauled wagons up the pass with the intention to let them thunder down on the advancing Macedonians as soon as they were within reach. Alexander assessed the situation immediately and issued orders to the phalanx to open up their ranks to let the wagons run through. In places where there was not enough space for the soldiers to step aside, they were instructed to lie down on the ground and lock their shields above their head. As a result, the Thracian wagons hardly caused any damage as they bolted downhill. 

Imagine how that went down with the troops this early in Alexander’s generalship! It is notable that the army obeyed his orders to the letter, showing that they trusted their new king and commander – a matter of detail, but a very important one! In the end, 1,500 Thracians were killed; the women and children were sent to Macedonia to be sold as slaves.

This episode is so characteristic for Alexander and even more telling when you consider what happens a few years later when he is confronting the Persian King Darius at the Battlefield of Gaugamela. Facing the Scythian chariots with the one meter long blades extending on each side able to mow away the enemy, he gave his troops the exact same order to let the carts run through the ranks with optimal result. Just remember that the very idea was born only one year into his kingship here in these Balkan forests. 

Valley of the Thracian Kings, Bulgaria

In my opinion, there are other and more urgent priorities in Bulgaria than to stimulate tourism and archaeological projects, but the Deputy Prime Minister and Finance Minister apparently think otherwise. They have decided to spend 3,5 million Leva (approx. 12,25 million Euros) on the entire project. 

A share of 3,5 million Leva (approx. 1,75 million Euros) is allotted to boost tourism in the Valley of the Thracian Kings in the Kazanlak area and study a Thracian tomb near the village of Buzovgrad. One million Leva will go towards archaeological studies, two millions towards infrastructure, and 500,000 Leva to improving water supply and sanitation. Bulgarian authorities hope that the Valley of the Thracian Kings will be added to UNESCO’s list of protected cultural heritage since they plan to link ten Thracian tombs together.

These Thracian tombs deserve much more attention than they are getting presently, for they are so unique! Several years ago, I had the opportunity to visit the Kazanlak Tomb, and I was very disappointed to learn on the spot that I only would see a replica. The original tomb was sealed off to protect it from outside influences; the inside air was kept at a steady temperature to guarantee the highest possible conservation level. A very understandable measure, of course, but utterly disappointing when you come all the way to see a mere copy. I hope this new project will enable the curious visitor to see part of the magnificent original wall paintings. 

This was several years ago after visiting an exhibition about the history of Bulgaria. It was an overwhelming experience, and I remember how I stared at the map of Bulgaria in an unsuccessful attempt to recognize any of the cities. All I could match with my memory was the capital Sofia and the town of Plovdiv because this was ancient Philippopolis founded by Philip II of Macedonia. The country was bordered in the north by Romania and in the south by Greece. Its eastern frontier touched the Black Sea, that much I knew, but that was about all. The exhibited artifacts were stunning, reaching back as far as 8,000 BC. This date was so abstract that I thought I was walking in circles when I arrived at the showcases with pieces from 800 BC! The artifacts showed such a high level of craftsmanship, an eye for details, and delicate and intricate work of precious metals, wood, bone, etc., that I was utterly baffled. I had no idea. 

This led me to visit Bulgaria to know more of its history, and one of the highlights for me obviously was Kazanlak, a city founded in the 7th century BC by the Thracians with a unique tomb that was discovered by chance in 1944 while digging around the Roman Baths built on top of it. The word “kazan” literally means “still,” very much like the stills used till recently in the rose industry.

The Kazanlak Tomb, built during the 4th/3rd century BC, was smaller than I expected and counted three separate rooms: the entrance where the guests gathered for the funeral; a corridor with a pointed arched ceiling that reminded me of Agamemnon’s tomb although this one was painted; and finally the inner chamber where the walls and the circular ceiling were covered with frescos as well. The quality of these paintings clearly showed Greek influence yet executed conforming to Thracian traditions, how amazing! A novelty in those days was the perspective achieved by creating the light and shade effect. 

The Thracians could take up to six wives, and their favorite, generally the youngest one, was “allowed” to accompany her husband to the hereafter – a definite honor. Depends upon your opinion, of course. They considered that dying was a happy event because babies cried when they came into this world, meaning that the place they just left must simply be a better one. This is why the deceased is represented accompanied by his favorite wife and several highly prized horses. 

Evidently, there are many more tombs to visit, like the one of Buzovgrad mentioned above but also, I suppose, many others. The ones coming to my mind are the Ostrusha Tumulus near Shipka that counted six rooms. Also, the still sealed As mentioned before, a few remarkable tombs definitely deserve close attention. However, the Kazanlak Tomb is understandably closed to the public, who can visit a substitute replica next door.  from the 5th century BC. It contained a stunning massive gold vial in the shape of a gold mask like those discovered in Mycenae and Macedonia. However, this one was made from a much thicker sheet of gold. Finally, the Kosmatka Tumulus contained a splendid temple with an impressive façade where King Seuthes III, the founder of Seuthopolis, was buried in the early 3rd century BC. His magnificent head made of bronze shows a good-looking man, inspiring intelligence and nobility, indeed not the traits of a barbarian as one might think. 

In fact, I can’t wait till these unique tombs and tumuli are entirely made accessible to the public, another priority to put on my list!