“What disturbs me most is not your lack
of respect for my judgment, it’s your contempt for a world far older than ours!”
Alexander pronounced these words in Oliver Stone’s movie, casually placed in
the king’s upcoming wedding with Roxane.
It is just a detail, but one that resonates much further than we may see at
first glance.
For the Greeks
and the Macedonians, the Persians were Barbarians. They certainly could not
imagine their refined culture, splendid cities and monuments, and accoutrements.
As a great
admirer of Cyrus,
the very founder of the Achaemenid dynasty, Alexander clearly understood that Persia was much older than Greece and
consequently had built up a richer civilization.
Oliver Stone
rightfully illustrated the grandeur and richness of the Persian Empire in Babylon when he
orchestrated Alexander’s
triumphal entrance march! This was the first major city the Macedonians saw
with their own eyes, leaving them in total awe. The pomp and circumstance of Persepolis
and Susa added to
their astonishment and wonder.
Although Alexander and his
companions were familiar with the palaces of Aegae and Pella,
these edifices could in no way compete with anything in Persia. Athens was a gem of its
own right, with the shining Parthenon finished a good hundred years before. In
contrast, Persian history, refinement, protocol, and wealth testified to their
cultural superiority. It must have been a real shock to most of the army. Even Alexander and his close
companions were not prepared to deal with this immeasurable and boundless
wealth.
Our thoughts
automatically drift to the gold and the luxurious furnishing and ornamentation
of the palaces. Still, we hardly would think of food, the oriental way to serve
it and savor it. In the Greek Symposia, an all-male gathering, food was
secondary to the meeting proper. The banquet started with a meal, and the wine
continued to be served till the end of the occasion. More importantly, the host
would regulate the wine intake since it was cut with the amount of water he
determined for the entire duration.
On the other
hand, the Persians drank their wine straight, and sumptuous occasions called
for much drinking. The long duration and the overall glamour contributed to
creating extraordinarily refined and elegant events. The wide choice of savory,
sweet foods like dates, for example, was a luxury unknown to many Greeks.
Dining was an
occasion to display Persian magnificence and sumptuousness, not only in their
setting but also in the dishes themselves. The diners’ behavior, however, was
far from elegant. Since the flow of the wine was not overseen by a host or
similar master of ceremony, the Persians often became violent and not seldom
harassed the king’s women who attended the meal. In this light, it is not
surprising that the Greeks saw them as Barbarians!
In both
cultures, fish and meat were widely present on the menu. The main difference
was that the Greeks generally roasted their meat and fish, whereas the Persians
preferred simmered, slowly cooked meals. They enriched their marinades with
exotic fruits and spices imported from as far as India, including saffron. Bread,
rice, and eggplant, delicate sauces further enhanced the dishes. After the main
dish, there was plenty of room for sweets and fruits as part of the following
dishes offered. A marriage of foods occurred during the lifetime of Alexander and lasted for
centuries entering today’s flavors and gastronomic influences in the world,
particularly in the Mediterranean.
It is said that
in its heyday, the Persian Empire was the
leader in refined gastronomy. Arrian casually mentioned the regiments of cooks
attached to the Persian king’s services when Parmenion took Damascus.
The Persian baggage train with noblemen's wives was camping there pending the
outcome of the Battle of Issus
(not expecting their defeat).
Even today, it
is hard to imagine the refined cooking and presentation of the meals marking
special occasions such as the mass wedding in Susa.
Cooks must have been busy day and night preparing an array of meats, fish,
vegetables, and fruits for thousands of guests (9.000 according to our
sources!). The logistics to cart the meat, fish, fruits, and vegetables to the
palace grounds are achievements on their own.
At that time, Alexander’s army was no
longer all Macedonian but integrated with peoples from Persia, Central Asia, and India. The food
habits in the camp had changed accordingly. In a way, Alexander conquered land
and people with their specific cultures, including a wide variety of their diets.
In his wake and thanks to the later Roman Empire,
the Spiced Road
was born with tentacles far beyond the lands touched by Alexander.
Modern visitors
to Greece, Turkey, and the Middle East
experience these exotic tastes and other flavors when served a typical local
meal. We accept them as a matter of course, but the issue was entirely
different for those living 2,500 years ago. Most people never left their
hometown unless to war with the neighboring settlement. Persia, which was much larger than today’s Iran, was at
the other end of the world as far as they were concerned. To them, the world
appeared from an entirely different perspective.
The
Greek-Italian chef Giorgio Pintzas Monzani wrote several pertinent articles on
this subject in the Greek Reporter, which
inspired me to write the present post.
[Top and second picture from Asia Food]