A Greek theatre, a first in the Ionian Islands

 As a matter of course, we expect about every Greek city to have a theater. This is, however, not the case on the Greek islands – until now. 

The Ionian island of Lefkada, situated along the west coast of Greece, lies about halfway between Corfu (ancient Corcyra) and Patras and has surprised every archaeologist with the presence of a large theater. 

In the 7^th century BC, many Corinthians set off to establish new colonies, such as Syracuse in Sicily, and some settled in Lefkada. This island is best known for its white cliffs, where the poetess Sappho jumped to her death in despair rather than facing an impossible love. 

Thanks to its strategic position along busy maritime routes, the city-state reached high cultural and economic prosperity. Archaeological research exposed sections of the city wall, residential structures, the harbor, and, more recently, remains of a theater on the northeastern slope of Koulmos Hill. 

[Picture from Greece Is]

Excavations started seriously in 2017, and soon the entire theater was exposed. It was established that it was built in the 4^th century BC and consisted of 21 rows of seats arranged around the orchestra. Originally, it could seat 3,500 spectators, but later extensions created space for over 10,000 visitors as more seats were added above an inserted diazoma. 

The latest excavation gave a good insight into the preserved sections of retaining walls (north and south), the seating area, the orchestra, and the stage itself. Many decorative elements have been revealed, as well as three beautifully carved thrones decorated with lion legs, dolphins, birds, sirens, and more. These were intended for priests or other city officials.

The fate of the theater was closely tied to that of Lefkada, which gradually declined in Roman times. As the city was abandoned at the end of antiquity, the theater’s stones were reused for later constructions elsewhere. 

Albania’s precious underwater heritage

The rich history of Albania, ancient Illyria is scarcely known and has been only occasionally explored (see: Looking for Illyrian remains in Albania). Yet there is much more archaeology to be found underwater along the country’s long coastline where hundreds of Roman and Greek shipwrecks and their contents are in danger of permanent destruction by looters and treasure hunters.

[North African amphorae at the site of a 4th century AD shipwreck 

off the coast of Albania [Credit: Geo Delveroudis/Associated Press]

In 2007, the RPM Nautical Foundation in Florida together with a joint Albanian-Italian team started exploring the seafloor with high-tech sonar and remotely operated underwater vehicles. Between the Greek border and the Bay of Vlorës, i.e. about one-third of Albania’s coastline they have found at least 22 shipwrecks ranging from the 8^th century BC to WWII. That section faces Corfu  (ancient Corcyra) and the very end of the heel of Italy where traffic was very heavy with ships heading for the many natural harbors of Illyria and those entering the Adriatic Sea to further destinations up north including to the east coast of Italy. It is not surprising that ancient shipwrecks yield such huge quantities of amphorae, the packaging material par excellence in antiquity.

Because of the severe communist regime of Enver Hoxha, Albania has been isolated for more than half a century and its archaeology is widely neglected. Since the new republic emerged in 1991, the country has been trying and hoping to meet Western standards. This is a long and difficult road and it is not surprising that looting has occurred in the archaeological sites and it is far from easy to control unlawful underwater treasure hunters.

Hopes are now centering on the non-profit Institute of Nautical Archaeology in Texas which envisages exploring the possibilities of excavating those shipwrecks resting along the Albanian coastline. As this coastline has been well protected because of secret nuclear-powered submarine bases, many wrecks are still undisturbed and for that reason, very promising.

So far, the best-known archaeological site in Albania is Butrint, ancient Buthrotum which is being protected by UNESCO (see also: The surprise of Butrint, ancient Buthrotum in Epirus).