The Sanctuary of Eleusis

Eleusis has been on my wish list for many years. For some reason or another, my visit was always postponed or canceled. But after much perseverance and determination, the opportunity arose, and I walked through the very entrance to the site. 

It so happens that this was where the Sacred Way ended, the one on which in antiquity the procession had started, leaving the Kerameikos in Athens. All that remains is a large paved area, once framed by two arches. [The picture shows the Sacred Gate at the Kerameikos in Athens]

We owe the earliest version of the Eleusinian Mystery to an unknown poet from the 6th century BC who composed the Homeric Hymn to Demeter. The Hymn describes the abduction of Persephone (or Kore), Demeter’s daughter, by her uncle, Hades, god of the Underworld. Demeter, the goddess of the earth and fertility of the land, set out on a desperate adventure to find her back. On her search, she rested here at Eleusis, where she found hospitality. To thank King Celeos and the people of Eleusis for their kindness, she rewarded them with the knowledge of agriculture and the “Mysteries” – sacred wisdom to be experienced and learned at Eleusis. 

Demeter’s quest continued, however. Overcome by sadness, she searched long and far relentlessly. Immersed in grief and loss, the seasons stopped, and living things ceased to grow and died. Facing the extinction of life on earth, Zeus, the brother to both Hades and Demeter and father to Persephone, intervened, commanding Hermes to bring Persephone back. However, because she had consumed some pomegranate seeds while with Hades, she was obliged to stay with him. As the order given by Zeus could not be ignored, the compromise was that Persephone would spend four months each year with Hades. These are the winter months. With Persephone's return to the surface of the earth comes spring, the planting of the seeds, summer, and the harvest in autumn. 

Over time, the Eleusinian Mysteries were open to everybody, male, female, or even slaves, as long as they followed the prescribed initiation. Eventually, most of Athens’ citizens, among which we count Pericles and Aristotle, were initiated and joined by prominent Romans like Marcus Aurelius.

We know little about the formalities around the annual Mysteries but almost nothing about their secret rituals. The celebration, which started in autumn, lasted nine days. This began with preparations, purification rites, and sacrifices in Athens proper. On the fifth day, the procession moved to Eleusis along the 20km Sacred Way. 

Several days of festivities at Eleusis followed, including the initiation proper, lasting an entire night. Otherwise, we have little insight into the rites because the participants were sworn to secrecy, and disclosing the mystery was a capital offense. One thing that transpires is that initiation helped to reduce one’s fear of death. Many writers imply that participating permanently and positively changed their lives. Cicero, for instance, stated that initiated gained the power not only to live happily but also to die with a better hope. 

The Eleusinian Mysteries remained popular for at least eight centuries. As Eleusis was part of Athens’ territory, the latter gained much prestige and fame. Christianity, here as elsewhere, gradually took over. 

Before entering the Sanctuary through the Greater Propylaea, one cannot miss the Temple of Artemis on the right-hand side. It dates from the 2nd century AD when much of the Sanctuary was reconstructed and expanded. All that’s left of this temple is the crepidoma and bits of columns among other pieces of architecture. 

The Greater Propylaea, also from the 2nd century AD, has left more vestiges. This tall entrance gate was a reduced copy of the better-known Propylaea at the Acropolis in Athens, built some 600 years earlier. It was erected by Emperor Hadrian and finished by Marcus Aurelius. 

Slightly behind this majestic gateway is a large cave-like opening in the rock considered an entrance to the Underworld. There was a small temple dedicated to Hades (the Roman Pluto). 

The primary building and heart of the sanctuary was the enormous Telesterion, where the Mysteries were celebrated. It was conceived by Tyrant Peisistratus upon instructions of Athens. Three sides of the inner space were occupied by seven rows of seats allowing a crowd of participants to observe what happened. Five rows of Ionian columns supported one of the most extensive roofs in the world (50x50m). The entrance on the southeast was protected by a portico supported by twelve columns of white marble standing in stark contrast with the dark stones of the outer walls. The Telesterion kept the most important element of the megaron, the Adyton, which coincided with the Anaktoron, the sanctum sanctorum. Here the sacred objects were kept only shown to those initiates and officials of the Mysteries who were allowed to enter. 

This marvelous construction was destroyed during Xerxes’ expedition, but soon plans arose to rebuild it twice the size of Peisistratus’ concept. Being too ambitious, the Telesterion was reduced to the rectangular shape we recognize today, offering seating for 4,000 people. 

Of course, it takes a lot of imagination to picture this unusual structure since all there is left to see is this wide paved area dotted with a few stubs of columns. The rock-cut tiers of seating are the most remarkable remnant of this striking building. The memory of the place is still there, but only limited evidence of what went on inside.

At the far end of the site is a small museum worth the visit, as always. The most striking relief of Demeter and Persephone has been moved to the National Archaeological Museum in Athens, but a copy is kept within these walls. 

It’s only on the way back that I notice the remains of the Lesser Propylaea, about halfway between the Greater Propylaea and the Telesterion. Noteworthy is the Roman relief on which ears of wheat, Demeter's gift to humankind, are clearly depicted.