Harran, better known under its Roman name Carrhae

Harran is the modern name for Roman Carrhae, where Crassus was crushed by the Parthians in 53 BC. Exploring these ruins, I wonder how much of old Carrhae was left after the Parthians killed 20,000 soldiers and took 10,000 more as prisoners.

Today’s Carrhae is in a dilapidated state where I quickly spot the Forum, some bathhouses, and temples. At the edge of the Forum rises a high square tower from the days of Prophet Mohamed. This is said to be the oldest minaret in Turkey and belonged to the Ulu Cami, i.e., the Congregation Mosque, the oldest university.

I did not expect to find any such remains in Harran as I was heading to see the unique and peculiar adobe constructions with a conical roof topped by a square vent made of the same material. The concept seems 3,000 years old, making me believe that Alexander saw these or similar constructions. These beehives, which were used till the 1980s, date from the 11th-12th century. Today, they are placed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. After building dams on the Euphrates, the villagers could now irrigate their fields and raise abundant crops of cotton, tomatoes, and aubergines. Before this irrigation project materialized, they had been constrained to herding goats and sheep. The beehive constructions are, however, maintained as a tourist attraction.

Following eastern hospitality, I am invited to take place on low V-shaped stools in the courtyard's shade. Tea is served by the men, who then withdraw to a corner of the yard. Meanwhile, children are running around, but I see no womenfolk.

I can freely roam in and around the rooms, in fact, one under each dome. As expected, they are cool and probably warm in winter, like Cappadocia's troglodyte caverns. My eyes have to adjust to the dim light since the only daylight is coming through one single window and the vent in the conical roof. The interior is made cozy, with carpets covering the floor and the walls. Low benches set against the walls display colorful cushions, and a few round and square tables fill the center of the room. In the sleeping quarters, I find beds standing high above the ground. The protective parapet has an opening to access the bed. I had noticed a similar contraption, but much higher above ground in the corner of the courtyard. Apparently, they are used during hot summer nights. The only modern touch is electric lighting and flushing toilets which look very much out of place.

The hill on the other side of the adobe settlement of Harran is crowned with a fort. This is where the Temple of Sin, the moon god, stood. But the stones and foundations have been reused for the construction of this fort. From my vantage spot, I have a great view over Harran where women with dark eyes and dark skin move in colorful dresses. Beyond the city, I spot green cotton fields separated by broad meandering waterways, some tributaries of the Euphrates, no doubt. It looks very peaceful as if time had no hold on the place, but the street boys tell me that only yesterday, a formation of warplanes from Iraq flew over. I find this an odd and awkward combination of past and present where there is no room for the present.

When Alexander marched east for his confrontation with Darius at Gaugamela, he passed through Harran. It is here that his scouts reported that the massive Persian army was marching north from Babylon. After giving his troops a few days rest, the king ordered a forced march to the Tigris as he meant to cross the river before his enemy could stop him.

I am hopeful that future excavations will expose much more of this unique city and maybe tell something about Alexander?