Atlas
Obscura is a newly created site (2021) aiming “to inspire wonder and curiosity about the incredible world we all share”.
In fact, it was an article about the preservation of grapes in the foothills of
the Hindu Kush that caught
my attention.
The location is
the village of Aqa Saray at about
half an hour drive north of Kabul
– Alexander land, as far as I’m
concerned. The place is described as being surrounded by vineyards and fruit
trees.
When Alexander
arrived in the area in late 330 BC, he realized that it was too late in the
year to march across the Hindu Kush (see:
From Afghanistan into Bactria across the Hindu Kush). For that reason, he settled his
army near Begram (later being renamed as Alexandria-in-the-Caucasus)
at the junction of the Cophen (Kabul) River and
the Panshir River overlooking a broad plain framed
with snowy peaks. The army got a breather of several months in this valley where
they found food and fodder in abundance.
The fertile soil
and dry-warm climate are ideal for apple, apricot and cherry trees to grow, as
well as for vineyards. Presently, the production of grapes is officially
estimated at 1.5 million tons. Further south, it is mainly pomegranates and
melons. In winter, however, the snow falls heavily over the Hindu Kush and the mountains are covered with some twenty meters
of snow.
The climate has
not changed much since Alexander’s
days, so it is easy to imagine that the local people still live the same way as they did then.
Here in Aqa Saray, there seems to be a living
proof of that old heritage being kept alive. They actually are using containers
made of mud-straw which they call kangina to preserve their grapes.
The containers actually seal off the contents and keep out air and moisture
– not unlike our modern plastic containers. The result is truly astonishing,
particularly for the preservation of their grapes as they look perfect and
remain fresh for at least five or six months, i.e., all through the winter!
The above article
mentions that this technique existed for centuries in these parts of Afghanistan and
I can’t help wondering for how many centuries. Maybe all the way back to the
days Alexander and his Macedonians occupied
the land?
The making of these containers has no secret. The
villagers use the available clay and mix it with water and straw to obtain the
desired consistency to create the bowls. They then are left to dry in the sun
for approximately five hours. Once the recipients are ready, the grapes are put
inside and the containers are sealed with more mud. The Taifi grape is
preferred since it has a thicker skin and is better adapted for this kind of
conservation technique. These preserved grapes are one of the favorite dishes served
during the Nowruz or New Year meals to the many guests who come
together for the occasion.
It would be interesting to be able to turn back the clock
of time, wouldn’t it?
[Pictures are from the Atlas Obscura]
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