Today Berat
in Albania
is specially known for its Ottoman houses, which amazingly have survived the
severe communist regime of Enver Hoxha.
Not my cup of tea, sorry, but my attention rises when I read a street sign Rruga Antipatrea, a street named after
Antipater? It feels like meeting family and of course, I have to explore this
source.
Well, it seems that Berat is built on top of ancient Antipatreia, originally
settled by a Greek tribe here in northern Epirus in the 6th
century BC. The name Antipatreia apparently leads us back
to Cassander who took control of the
region in 314 BC. When the Romans arrived in 200 BC, they are said to have
razed the city walls and massacred the entire male population. No wonder I see
no trace from antiquity. The Byzantine Emperor
Theodosius II in turn strengthened the walls again in the 5th century and
about one hundred years later Emperor Justinian entirely rebuilt them. We had to wait till the 13th
century for a revival of Berat when
a fortress was built, and this is now the heart of old Berat with picturesque streets and medieval houses and churches.
Berat is beautifully set on both banks of
the Osum River and under this
threatening sky, it seems to revive some spirits from the past. A strange
encounter to say the least.
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