Remembrance Day

Each year again the British celebrate their Remembrance Day with great pride. Inevitably my thoughts drift off to Alexander and what he would have thought of this tradition. I truly believe he would have liked it very much. He even would have implemented a similar honorific parade had he lived long enough.

Without Cassander’s cruel rule, the situation in Macedonia would have been entirely different in spite of the Wars of the Diadochi that dragged on for about forty years. The successors in the end ruled over their share of Alexander's huge empire following the king's example. Inevitably, their Macedonian pride could not survive down to the following generations but whoever ruled over Alexander’s home country would have valued him highly. After all, the Macedonians of northern Greece still do. 

In the aftermath of those glorious years, several rulers certainly tried to keep Macedonia on the map. Most noteworthy are kings like Demetrios Poliorcetes (306-286 BC), Pyrrhus of Epirus (306-272 BC), Philip V (221-179 BC) and Perseus (179-166 BC). I'm sure they still held Alexander in high esteem and true to the great example of his troops. They would have found a way to honor those soldiers and remember them.

In the end, it may be nothing more than wishful thinking because history always takes turns of its own. It is incontestable that the Romans still envied and tried to emulate Alexander but they were foreigners and outsiders, who could never match the greatness of the king who died too young.

ΟΡΝΙΘΕΣ, THE BIRDS. From Aristophanes to Hadjidakis

Aristophanes was a rather prolific comedy writer, who lived from ca. 446 to ca. 386 BC. An amazing eleven of his forty plays have survived and the best-known is probably The Birds created in 414 BC.

The poet was greatly disappointed by the political situation in Athens and the misery of his countrymen at that time. To express his disagreement (and probably his frustration), he composed this caustic protest.

The story is told by two Athenians, who like Aristophanes, are disgusted with the situation. They decide to leave the city. On their way, they meet the birds and manage to convince them to create an Ideal State, named Nephelococcygia, somewhere between Heaven and Earth. From there, they’ll rule the world in fairness and in honesty.

The Macedonian kings, including Alexander, must have been familiar with the work of Aristophanes. This means that Alexander may very well have attended the performance of The Birds in his home country and maybe even on special occasions while he was in Asia.

Manos Hadjidakis lived more than two centuries later. He was born in Xanthi, Greece in 1925 (his house is still there to visit) and died in Athens in 1994. He wrote songs, soundtracks for movies, and musicals but also a great collection of poems. People outside Greece generally know him from the song Never on Sunday which won him an Oscar, but in my opinion, he wrote far better music. Today, he is considered to be one of the greatest songwriters of his time, and certainly so in Greece.

Hadjidakis’ version of The Birds is obviously based on the play by Aristophanes. Initially, the piece was not well received because his music was a kind of urban Greek music called rebetiko. This style is generally described as the popular song of the Greeks, mostly the poorest classes, common from the late 19^th century to the 1950s and 1960s. Hadjidakis managed to create a unique sound, the kind of music that stands alone. And it clearly stands out.

It takes time for our Western ears to get used to but eventually, with time and an open mind, it really does grow on you!

The Birds has been successfully performed in concerts, plays, and even as a ballet choreographed by Maurice Béjart. Personally, I prefer the orchestral rendition where I can let my imagination run freely. Unfortunately, I have not found it available on YouTube, but I highly recommend the CD released by EMI under the title ΟΡΝΙΘΕΣ, THE BIRDS, ISBN 7243 5 22324 2 0. The music is totally enthralling. To add to the pleasure of the listener, the CD comes with a leaflet containing the lyrics both in Greek and in English.

Among the most interesting YouTube music by Hadjidakis, it is worth exploring these two links 30 Νυχτερινά Μάνος Χατζιδάκις and Ο Μάνος Χατζιδάκις Στη Ρωμαϊκή Αγορά Full Album

Of course, this is a far cry from the kind of music in antiquity as we know it (see: Reconstructing ancient Greek music, an impossible task?). We may wonder what the ancients, including Alexander and Aristophanes, would have thought of Hadjidaki's interpretation.

A masterpiece of Hellenistic art

A while ago, the bronze statue of The Boxer at Rest made headlines in The Greek Reporter. It certainly is one of the most lifelike and realistic masterpieces from antiquity that has survived the recycling melting ovens.

Sadly, no picture of this exceptional bronze does any credit to what it truly embodies, neither the whole statue nor the details.

[Picture from The Greek Reporter]

Nowadays, this amazing sculpture is kept at the Museo Nazionale Romano, Palazzo Massimo alle Terme in Rome, Italy. Unfortunately, I couldn’t find out how it is being presented as it certainly deserves a royal space of its own.

I was very fortunate to see it for myself a few years ago in Florence, Italy as part of the exhibition “Power and Pathos, Bronze Sculpture of the Hellenistic World”. The boxer left a deep impression as he commanded attention and respect.

He was placed on the floor like an occasional visitor, unwinding after the intense fight he just went through. His body showed the many scars and cuts left by his opponent. His hands were still wrapped in leather strips meant to protect them but also to inflict as many injuries as possible to his adversary. His oozing wounds colored red with blood (red bronze inserts) illustrated how fierce and unforgiving the fight must have been.

The combat apparently just finished, and the fighter starts to relax. Obviously, the adrenaline is still rushing through his veins and it seems he could jump into fighting mode at the first wrong sparkle from the onlookers. Walking around him, one has to tread with care. He is so life-like that he could look up at you at any moment! (see: A grand collection of Greek bronze masterpieces)

The bronze was found buried in the gardens of the Palazzo Quirinale in Rome in 1885. Admirers of art or lovers of boxing-fights may have wanted to safeguard the statue for better times, whatever their motives or circumstances. We know nothing about the origin of this marvelous boxer. The sculptor remains anonymous and the name of the commissioner, who must have been a wealthy man, is still unknown.

The statue has been dated to 330-50 BC, which is, in fact, the entire Hellenistic era. We have only a few such examples whereas Hellenism must have produced countless numbers of magnificent sculptures. 

With a twist of my mind, I am reminded of the lifelike statues of Alexander and Craterus on a lion hunt that stood in Delphi (see: An unexpected encounter with Alexander at Delphi). It is said that when Cassander visited this work of art and saw Alexander standing in the dim light, he became “so terrified that his body shuddered and trembled” according to Plutarch. Cassander is said to have nearly fainted as the lifelike Alexander undoubtedly stared back at him. Plutarch further adds that it took Cassander a long time to recover.

His fear for Alexander and his wrath must have run very deep. Of course, he had every reason to be afraid. After all, he had murdered Alexander’s mother Olympias, wife Roxane, son Alexander IV, his long-time mistress Barsine and her son Heracles. With so much blood on his hands, one may wonder whether Cassander could sleep at night. He was a profoundly frustrated and evil man and does not deserve any consideration or pity.

The rescue of five ancient silver coins

It is always a pleasure to read good news. The Archaeology News Network has a great article about five rare coins rescued from being auctioned off in Munich and Zurich but now returned to Greece. The article includes a very detailed picture of each item, which by itself is a pure pleasure for the eyes.

The three coins that were discovered in Munich have found their rightful place in the Numismatic Museum of Athens:

- a stater from Lindos, Rhodes, dating from the first half of the 5^th century BC

- a stater from Elis, a region in the northwestern corner of the Peloponnese, from around 328 BC

- an octadrachm of Getas, king of the Thracian Edonian tribe, from 480-460 BC

The other two silver coins were caught in Zurich:

- a tetradrachm from Athens dated 136 BC

- a tetradrachm of Ptolemy IV Philopator from about the end of the 3^rd century BC, minted in Sidon. He may be depicted here with his wife, Arsinoe III of Egypt.

These precious items have been appropriately handed over to the Archaeological Museum of Patras.

Criminals keep on hunting in the hope of selling their booty for lots of money on the black market abroad. There is no limit to the looting, and coins, in particular, are easy to smuggle out of sight of the authorities. Inside Greece, it appears that over 2,000 coins have been confiscated. Germany, on the other hand, returned some 600 ancient coins and other antiquities, besides 33 vessels from the Mycenaean era that were looted and illegally brought into the country.

Although it is praiseworthy that so many artifacts find their way home, it remains very regrettable that the objects have been taken out of their context forever, losing much of their historical value.

[The pictures of the coins are evidently from the Archaeology News Network]

How to dig up your own mosaic floor

The discovery of a mosaic floor found underneath a house or a vineyard in Italy seems to be recurrent news. I have read a couple of such articles over the past months. Just dig deep enough under the street level, your house or your field and eventually you’ll hit remains from antiquity like surprisingly elaborate mosaicfloors.

[Picture from Edition CNN - Credit Soprintendenza Speciale di Roma/ BNP Paribas Real Estate] 

About six years ago, archaeologists were called in after early remains were spotted during construction works in the residential area of Rome – more precisely on the Aventine Hill, one of the initial seven hills of the city.

The site showed signs of occupation going back to 900 BC. In the middle of the 2^nd century BC, a Roman Domus, a typical residence for the Roman upper class stood on this spot. The black and white mosaic floor that was unearthed has been dated to the 1^st century BC and another fragment from about two centuries later. More black and white mosaics, in geometric patterns this time, are typical for the reign of Hadrian (117-138 AD) and five more mosaics from the days of his successors were uncovered as well.

Instead of moving these floors to a museum and taking them entirely out of their context, it was decided to leave them in situ and to create a museum under the modern apartment block.

This is very exciting news as it reminds me of a similar exhibit in Ravenna. Here the floors of the entire villa from the 6^th century AD were found under the parking garage of an apartment building. These beautiful remains have been made accessible to the public. They go by the name Tapeti di Pietra (carpets of stone), a little gem worth to be seen!

Earlier this year, a well-preserved mosaic floor was found in a vineyard of the Valpolicella area, north of Verona. It has been dated to the 3^rd century AD and displays polychrome patterns both geometric and floral.

[Picture from Comune Negrar di Valpolicella]

The site was known since the 19^th century when the remains of an ancient Roman villa were uncovered. However, pinpointing the exact location of the construction was quite another story. Only sporadic excavations occurred due to a lack of fund or lack of access since the vineyard is still operational.

In spite of the new restrictions around the coronavirus pandemic, the town officials seem very keen to explore the remains of that villa and its treasures pretty soon.

The Getty Villa, an invitation to Roman life

 The Getty Villa in Malibu, California is more than a museum. The premises offer a priceless insight into daily life as it was during the 1^st century AD of the Roman Empire.

The Villa is a reconstruction of the Villa dei Papiri in Herculaneum and the truthful recreation of what once was. Whereas most people may expect some kind of Disneyland recreation, the Getty Villa is as close to reality as can be. Instead of imagining what such a house would look like while strolling through the streets of Herculaneum or Pompeii, Paul Getty has done the work for us. For those who ever visited Athens, it can be compared to the careful reconstruction of the Stoa of Attalus.

This means that, although most visitors will rush to the entrails of the Villa to have a close look at the superb collection of antiquities, it is worth spending time looking at the building itself.

I already gave a detailed description of the Villa in my earlier blog, The renovated Getty Villa in Malibu, California.

It so happened that the Getty Villa posted this revealing video, which interestingly entirely matches my own impressions.

The 1,200 antiquities on display at the Villa are all of extremely high quality and often tell a story of their own. Given the total of approximately 44,000 such artifacts to choose from, you’ll find something new to discover each time you visit the Getty Villa.

We should keep in mind that the layout of a Roman villa is a mere copy of what Alexander experienced back home in Macedonia a few centuries earlier. Enough impressions to dream away!

The Royal Palace of Pella will open to the public in 2021

At last! The announcement is made official that the Royal Palace of Pella will open for visitors in the summer of 2021.

It is only a postponement of ten years. The birthplace (we hope) of Alexander was supposed to open in 2011, but at the last moment, it was decided to restart new excavations. At that time, Greece was facing a severe financial crisis which most certainly didn’t help the progress of the works.

The Greek City Times brought the long-awaited news and kindly added a full drawing of the palace layout. The quality of the picture, unfortunately, is awful and far from sharp. But this is all we have for the moment.

[picture from The Greek City Times]

It is said that the palace counted seven large buildings and I was hoping, against all odds, to find out where the palace proper was located as opposed to the premises occupied by King Philip’s wives other than Olympias. There must have been a room reserved for official receptions or banquets, a library, a Gymnasion and perhaps even a pool.

Instead, the article centers on the presentation of a digital tour in a visitor center. This edifice will be built to that purpose in 2023. Why this cannot be included or added to the existing Archaeological Museum of Pella nearby raises questions.

From what filters through, this palace is said to cover 28 ha, as opposed to the 6 ha mentioned initially. The reason for that difference may be linked to the period of prosperity that followed Alexander's death. Between the years 320 till 250 BC, the palace may have undergone drastic expansions.

For now, many questions remain unanswered. The fact remains that we will never know what treasures were kept inside the Royal Palace of Pella as the Romans thoroughly looted the premises and carried their trophies in triumph to Rome. 

Sassanid art in pictures

The Sassanids ruled over Iran from 224 AD until the Arabs took over in the 7^th century AD. This is a far cry from the empire of Darius III that Alexander conquered. Yet, it is an interesting time frame altogether since the Sassanids drew their inspiration from the earlier Achaemenid rule (see: Sassanid reliefs tell a story of their own in Persia).

This era left its imprints all over Persia, as can be seen in the rock-carved reliefs of Naqs-i Rajab and Naqsh-i Rustam close to Persepolis, Tang-i Tchogan at Bishapur and Taq-iBostan near Kermanshah. Also, the temples of goddess Anahita, both in Bishapur and in Kangavar show a mixture of Sassanid and Hellenistic influences (see: The powerful goddess Anahita in Persia).

[Picture from Tehran Times]

Presently, the Italian University of Sapienza in Rome has worked together with the Anahita Temple National Center in Kangavar to exhibit photographs on arts and monuments, together with architectural works from across the province of Kermanshah in western Iran. The pictures include views of the ruins of the Anahita Temple in Kangavar as well as of the Palace of Khosrow Parviz in Qasr-e Shirin.

The Iranian collaboration with the Italian experts has centered on Anahita’s sanctuary in Kangavar as discussed earlier in my blog The powerful goddess Anahita in Persia.

Also highlighted is the Palace of the Sassanid King Ardashir in Firuzabad that displays the unique dome construction known as the squinch. This architectural feature consists of building a dome on top of a square base. It may well be the earliest surviving example and could indicate that the squinch was actually invented in Persia.

The imposing palace of Ctesiphon or Hatra (now in modern Iraq) is much better known because of a sizable vaulted arch. This city was built by the Parthians in the 2^nd century BC as the capital of their empire. Ctesiphon/Hatra was conquered by the Sassanids in 226 AD, who turned it into a true metropolis worthy to serve as their capital. I seem to remember that the arch or at least the human heads in the surrounding walls were attacked by IS fanatics, but I couldn’t find a confirmation to that end.

Little information about the Sassanid empire transpires beyond the borders of modern Iraq and Iran, despite the grand cities these kings built using their precious craftsmanship as metal workers and gem engravers. They also took care of translating much of the existing western and eastern literature into Pahlavi, the Sassanid language.

Results of latest excavations in ancient Myra

This year’s excavations (2020) were concentrated around the Roman Theater. Archaeologists hoped to find remnants from earlier constructions that would complete the picture of Myra (see: Ancient Myra from Finike) we have until now.

Their search was rewarded when they unearthed a small Hellenistic theater underneath the Roman construction. Also, sections of walls were retrieved as well as a number of bronze, lead, and silver artifacts and various ceramics.

[Picture from the Hurriyet Daily News]

The most impressive find, however, was the collection of some 50 terracotta figurines. They represented male and female figures, gods and goddesses, some children and women with children, and cavalry figurines. Inscriptions from the 2^nd-1^st century BC were disclosed as well. Many of the artifacts still have traces of red, blue, and pink paint, making them particularly interesting.

As always, such scenes from daily life help to complete the information we have so far about the culture and beliefs of that time, in that area.

Once these figures are restored and cleaned, they will be exhibited at the Museum of Lycian Civilizations, which has been created inside the walls of Hadrian’s Granary in Andriake, the harbor of Myra (see: Andriake’s Museum has opened). 

Another Alexander fort?

It is entirely by accident that I came across the mention of The Citadel of Alexander the Great in Farah, Afghanistan. I must confess that I never looked for it as I didn’t expect to find much traces of the Macedonian king in that country.

Farah is the modern name for ancient Phrada, Alexandria in Drangiana or Alexandria Prophthasia. Besides being a fortress, the site made headlines because of the famous conspiracy of Philotas that occurred in 330 BC (see: The Philotas Affair). After the treachery of Philotas was brought to a good end – at least for Alexander – Alexandria in Drangiana was renamed Alexandria Prophthasia, appropriately meaning “Anticipation” since Alexander anticipated widespread consequences and acted before the others could attack him.

[Alexander's Citadel, from Michael Yon On-Line]

The events as told by Curtius unfolded in and around Alexander’s tent. That is probably the reason why I was not looking for a nearby fortress of any kind. On the other hand, it has not been established with certitude that Alexandria Prophthasia is to be found on the site of Farah either.

Under these circumstances, it is not unreal to assume that local legend has its own truth and that the Citadel of Farah was once occupied by Alexander and his Macedonians. Reaching a diameter of approximately one square kilometer, its size is impressive enough. Even today, the earthen walls, which initially were about 15 meters high, crown the hill next to Farah’s bazaar.

Farah as all of Afghanistan, unfortunately, lacks in-depth archaeological research and excavations. Alexander’s occupation may, after all, be resting on local folklore. Another theory is that the citadel was built by the Zoroastrians in the days of Darius I (the Great), i.e., in the 6^th century BC. This would mean that it already existed when Alexander arrived.

After the king’s death, the Seleucids ruled the region until in the 2^nd century BC the Graeco-Bactrians emerged followed by the Parthians and eventually, the Sacae.

It is not surprising that because of the repeated later additions and transformations, the origin of this fort remains enigmatic. The Citadel is in deplorable condition, and recent occupations by the Soviet army and the Mujahedeen fighters have led to serious disrepair of the site.

All is not lost, it seems since funds are being requested officially with the Ministry of Information and Culture to restore the historic site. 

It will take much effort and even more time to disclose the story behind these walls, especially since so much of Afghanistan is in dear need of excavation and protection (see: Saving Afghanistan’s Incredible Heritage).