Mieza today is generally called Náousa after the city made famous for its wine, and driving through this area, one can easily see why. Náousa lies at the edge of a high plateau offering an impressive overall view of the wineries and orchards spread over the fertile valley between the villages of Lefkadia and Kopanos. It is such a pleasant landscape, especially in spring when the fields are generally overgrown with dark red poppies.
I drove down a dirt road between the cornfields, crossing the railroad tracks until I saw a pink building on my right with no sign or inscription. Yet this was the shelter protecting the Tomb of the Judgment. A local guide produced an extensive set of keys to open the heavy metal sliding doors, and I had to wait a moment for the lights to be turned on. The space was kept at a constant temperature, and the cool air gave me the chills. Slowly my eyes got used to the dim light as I stepped down the stairs that ran over the entire width of the building. At first, I thought I was standing in front of a well-preserved temple, and I slowly realized this was an actual tomb. Its façade is 8.6 meters wide and of equal height, heavily supported by beams to keep it upright. It looks as if there are two floors, but that is only an optical illusion. The entrance door is flanked by two times two half-Dorian columns, with in between them a fresco of a person. The figure to the left is the deceased himself on his way to Hades, and next to him the god Hermes escorting his soul; to the right are the seated Aiakos and the standing Rhadamanthys, both judges from Hades – hence the name of the tomb. I had never seen painted figures from so close by, and the profusion of color and delicacy of the brush strokes is absolutely fabulous. The deceased is represented wearing the military uniform of a Macedonian nobleman but without a helmet or shield, which would indicate that he didn’t die in battle. He is dressed in a short red chiton with sleeves; his bright blue coat with red trimmings is draped around his shoulders, and his feet are fitted in sandals of yellow leather. In his hand, he carries the winged emblem by which he is identified. This is a true pleasure for the eye.
My guide also has the keys to the other tomb, the Tomb of the Palmettos, further down the road between the vines and cornfields. When the heavy door is unlocked, and the lights are on, I’m utterly speechless by what I am discovering! Amazing colors! Huge palmettos! I had no idea the colors could still be that fresh or intense after over two thousand years! Enough to give anyone goosebumps. It is said to be the best-preserved tomb, and I gladly believe it. This façade is only 5.25 meters wide and 6.25 meters high, which is small compared to the last tomb. The striking elements are the palmettes on top of the pediment, one in the middle and one on each corner, folded around it to fit the construction. Each palmetto is at least one meter high and shows a heart of bright red and dark pink among the nearly purple-blue of the leaves, which are in strong contrast with the ocher-white and soft pink edges. Wow! What a breathtaking image! The pediment also deserves attention, for although the picture of the couple looking at each other over a banquet is not too clear, analysts have discovered that a wide range of colors has been used: dark red, purple, and ochre for the shadows, green, grey, blue, pink and combinations of diluted grey and black. No treasures have been found inside, as the tomb has been looted over the centuries, but that doesn’t make it less attractive.
I drive further south until I hit the sign directing me to Náousa. My destination will be Mieza, located in the foothills at the end of the fertile valley floor. This is the place where, upon the recommendations of King Philip II, Aristotle was installed with his pupils – the most important of them being Alexander, of course. I marvel at the lush growth of all kinds, lavishly enhanced by widespread fields of dark red poppies.
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Like everywhere else in Hellas, history and legend are interwoven. Here in Mieza, the story is no different. According to local legends, the mystical king of the area, Veretes, had two daughters and one son. His daughters gave their names to the two most important cities in Emathia, Veroia, and Mieza, and his son, Olganos, had a river named after him since he was transformed into a river god. A beautiful bust of Olganos welcomes the visitor to the Museum of Veroia, an excellent work of art. Maybe his spirit is still keeping a watchful eye over the place…
It is generally admitted that in addition to Mieza, there were villages and farms in this area, maybe looking like today’s settlements. Driving over these narrow local roads, you cannot miss the many remains of villas, tombs, and even a Hellenistic theater. The scenery is very evocative and inspiring in its quietness and timelessness. A walk among the remains of Mieza’s school is, in fact, very soothing.
It is generally admitted that in addition to Mieza, there were villages and farms in this area, maybe looking like today’s settlements. Driving over these narrow local roads, you cannot miss the many remains of villas, tombs, and even a Hellenistic theater. The scenery is very evocative and inspiring in its quietness and timelessness. A walk among the remains of Mieza’s school is, in fact, very soothing.
From here on, the road turns upwards to the plateau where Náousa has been built. It is a pleasant town with a broad park overlooking the valley I just left, flanked by many hotels and restaurants. At the far end, the foaming waters of the Arapitsa tumble down to a depth hidden among trees and shrubs. The sidewalk on the park side of the main street is occupied by inviting seats, including lazy chairs and couches with cushions where gas heaters break the day's chill. It is the place to be and the place to be seen. Young people but also parents with children and elderly people apparently have found this cozy corner where they sip their favorite drink, not necessarily the Náousa wine, which by the way, is excellent! Useless to say that I spend some time here to recover from all the impressions and to enjoy a stroll through the park with an unforgettable view. Something to cherish.
I push on just a bit further southward to the city of Veroia to visit the local museum, which is being advertised as one of Macedonia's most important archaeological museums. After taking my first photograph of the bust of Olganos dating from the 2nd century AD, I was told that no pictures are allowed. Too bad, because it always helps me to remember.
I push on just a bit further southward to the city of Veroia to visit the local museum, which is being advertised as one of Macedonia's most important archaeological museums. After taking my first photograph of the bust of Olganos dating from the 2nd century AD, I was told that no pictures are allowed. Too bad, because it always helps me to remember.
Back outside, I take the time to walk around the museum where several funerary vases, sarcophagi, and steles typical for the 2nd century AD have found refuge. Next to the entrance door, the oversized head of Medusa is staring at me. It was either part of Veroia’s city walls or a significant civic building, dated to the 2nd century BC.
And all this is part of the land that has seen Alexander growing up …
And all this is part of the land that has seen Alexander growing up …