Surprising city of Tripolis in Turkey

Tripolis can be found some 20 kilometers from the famous site of Pamukkale and the ancient city of Hierapolis. Its name meaning three cities is due to its location, i.e., at the crossroads of Phrygia, Lydia, and Caria, on the northern bank of the Meander River. From here, it was a convenient hub to reach Sardes, Philadelphia (modern Alaşehir), and Laodicea. 

Although Tripolis existed in Hellenistic times, it reached its peak in the 2^nd century AD as testified by the remains we find here today. 

The city could be entered by two gates, the Gate of Hierapolis on the southern side and the Gate of Philadelphia at the western end.

[Picture from Female Fearless Travels]

Excavations have exposed a straight colonnaded street of ten meters wide and 450 meters long that runs east-west through the city. It was paved with travertine slabs. At the intersection of the main streets, a Nymphaeum was discovered. This Orpheus Fountain rested on a marble floor, and its walls were covered with onyx and white marble. The water came from a cistern east of the street. 

The colonnaded street is the most prominent element in Tripolis and is for now the main attraction. Pending further digs, several monuments from the 2^nd century AD have been identified, such as two Agoras, one of which borders the northern side of the street, and two Baths, the Great Thermae near the western entrance to the city, and the Theater Thermae close to the theater. The theater is estimated to seat 8,000 people. Also, the Stadium could be located just outside the city walls and measures 256x66 meters. The Bouleuterion of 64x44 meters stands in the center of Tripolis, and only part of its walls are visible. 

[Orpheus Fountain from Turkish Archeo News]

It is remarkable, however, to discover an indoor bazaar in excellent condition since it remained buried for centuries. This structure is a unique example so far in the Mediterranean. 

The fate of Tripolis was sealed after repeated earthquakes, the most severe one happening in 494 AD.  

A visit to Tripolis sounds rather inviting. The colonnaded street is very promising, but sadly little is known of the city’s role in history despite its early origin dating to the 4^th millennium BC.

With a population of nearly 20,000 in the 2^nd century AD, I assume an emperor like Hadrian would be mentioned as he stayed in nearby Hierapolis in 129 AD. This also applies to Caracalla in 215 AD. I would not be surprised if during Hellenistic times members of the Seleucid dynasty spent time in Tripolis. Apparently, nothing of the kind has transpired from the excavations yet. It is like visiting a skeleton without a soul …

More excavations in Hierapolis

Hierapolis is much lesser known than Pamukkale, the hot water springs that are slowly swallowing the ancient city once built next to this natural phenomenon (see: Hierapolis, stepchild of Pamukkale). 

The original city grew around a temple erected close to the thermal springs in the first half of the 7th century BC. Hierapolis, meaning “sacred city,” was founded in 190 BC by Eumenes II, King of Pergamon then. 

Recent excavations have been carried out in private houses north of the city, close to the agora and the theatre. These were small residences believed to be meant for four to seven people. Inside, archaeologists found small items like coins, ceramics, and lamps. Based on finds such as a round millstone and traces of olive oil production, it was believed that Hierapolis was an important rural town. 

Besides the houses near the theater, further restorations and diggings were carried out at the Martyrium of the Apostle Philip, the theatre, the Monumental Fountain, and the Sanctuary of Apollo next to the Plutonium. This monument has been considered the Gateway to Hades because it is built over a seismic fault emitting toxic gasses. 

Hierapolis was abandoned after the severe earthquake of the 7th century AD, during which the marble portico of the Temple of Apollo collapsed into the spring waters of the nearby Nympheum. 

Today, visitors are welcome to swim between the idyllic marble columns among luxuriant flowers and bushes of pink laurel.

Laodicea, great works in progress!

Only recently, Laodicea was in the news because a tablet explaining the laws for the city’s water management dating from Roman times was discovered (see: Water laws, still unchanged after nearly two thousand years).

[Picture from Hurriyet Daily News]

It appears that excavations have intensified and that a sacred agora, the only such example in the world, has been exposed and is undergoing serious restoration. This agora, the largest sacred area in Anatolia because of the adjacent temple, collapsed after the severe earthquake of 494 AD and was covered under a layer of up to seven meters of rubble. It is leaning against a 100-meter-long and eleven-meter-high back wall that is covered with paintings. Over its entire length ran a Stoa and the columns – some 34 of them - that once held the roof are now being reassembled.

At the same time, work has progressed in reviving the Hellenistic theater planning to make it accessible again in two years time. The lower tiers of seats have been preserved but the upper tiers survived only partially. Most of the restoration apparently seems to be needed around the skene, which in the 5^th century became part of the city wall.

Archaeologists are still sorting through the reliefs, sculptures, vessels, and jewels found on the site, generally transferred to the local museum.

Laodicea, which is located only ten kilometers from Hierapolis (next to Pamukkale) was founded by Antiochus II Theos of Syria and named after his first wife, Laodike. This Seleucid king is the one who is mentioned on one of the Ashoka pillars as Amtiyoko, king of Greater Syria and Bactria (see: When pillars with unknown writing were discovered in India).

In 188 BC, the city was ruled by the kings of Pergamon until it fell to the Romans in 133 BC. At this point and because of its strategic position, Laodicea flourished thanks to the intensive trade in black wool.

[Picture from Wikipedia]

As mentioned before, there is far more to discover at Laodicea besides the Agora and the Theatre. The list contains buildings like baths, several temples, another theater, and a Bouleuterion.  The Stadion is in good condition and still contains the original seating on both sides, taking advantage of the narrow valley in which it has been built. At its western end are the remains of an underground passage used by chariots and horses to access the arena. Many streets were lined with columns and pedestals and there are even traces of a city gate, the Ephesos Gate. North of the city, closer to the adjacent Lycos River, the necropolis has been discovered with many sarcophagi whose lids have been removed in antiquity by tomb raiders.

Quite exceptional, however, is the aqueduct of Laodicea since it is very similar to the one found at Aspendos (see: Aspendos, the unfaithful). In both cases, an inverted siphon carried the water from the summit of a low hill down the valley all the way up to the header tank at the edge of the city. This certainly is great news, as until now Aspendos claimed the monopoly for this kind of Roman architecture. 

Hierapolis, stepchild of Pamukkale

Tourists flock by dozens of busloads to visit the thermal springs of Pamukkale, which in Turkish means “cotton castle,” hardly aware of the existence of Hierapolis. As the spring water is cooling in contact with the air, it leaves behind a thick coat of travertine that sets in the shape of basins cascading downhill. It appears like a giant white scar in the landscape. Visitors loved to wade through these basins, trampling the fragile formation and polluting the mineral waters, with catastrophic results, as even hotels were built right on top. Luckily, the government stopped these practices, and hotels have been dismantled, while visitors are now generally ushered over wooden boards laid over the inviting basins. 

For me, this is the first time I have heard of Hierapolis, an ancient city half swallowed or integrated by the travertine deposits of Pamukkale. Upon arrival, I first glimpse the many impressive sarcophagi alongside the road, the largest concentration in Anatolia. 

Hierapolis, meaning “sacred city,” was founded by Eumenes II, King of Pergamon, in 190 BC and was famous for its woven fabrics, mainly wool. Like so many cities in the area, it surrendered to the Romans in 133 BC. However, a large part of the city was destroyed during the earthquake of 60 AD. Still, most of it was rebuilt afterward, and Hierapolis prospered again, reaching its apogee between 196 and 215 AD. By 395 AD, the Byzantines took over, and it was still known for its gladiator fights till it was abandoned in the 6th century, and a good part of the buildings disappeared under the travertine formations. 

The necropolis I first saw is huge and counts no less than 1200 sarcophagi and tombs built in the shape of mostly Roman houses, but others date from earlier Hellenistic or later Christian eras. I’ve never seen such a large concentration! A city by itself! 

Old Hierapolis is a little further down the road, where the Arch of Domitian leans against a thick, round fortification tower. From here, the 14-feet-wide colonnade street, the so-called Plateia, runs straight ahead for about 1,500 meters. To the left are the remains of the Agora leading to the ancient Theater with high crooked walls ready to tumble down any moment since the earthquake of 60 AD. The large Theater at the other end of the town dates from the 2nd century AD and once seated 20,000 people. Although only about thirty tiers of seats remain, it is worth admiring the Baroque stage that has been recently restored. In the upper part of the stage, reliefs of Septimius Severus and his wife Julia were found. This Roman Emperor loved Hierapolis and contributed to building this very Theater, whose architecture is said to be unique.

Nearby, we find the poor remains of the Nympheum with the adjacent pool, which might be the only testimony of the Temple of Apollo. This site was abandoned after the earthquake of the 7th century, and the marble portico collapsed into the spring waters. Today’s visitors are welcome to swim between these idyllic marble columns among lush flowers and bushes of pink laurel. What a setting! 

Because of the hot springs, Hierapolis was a popular health center in Roman times when literally thousands of people bathed in one of the fifteen baths, each seeking his/her own kind of remedy. 

From down here, I try to take in the site. There is still a lot of excavation work in this large city. As I see no fence or surveillance, many antique artifacts must be simply for the taking. The locals freely swarm out over the site with their embroidered pillowcases, crocheted napkins, postcards, and booklets as if they own the place. In a sense, they do, but I expect stricter control over an archaeological site. 

I climb to a higher point among the ruins, basically to get away from the noisy crowds. I reach the sturdy walls of Philip’s Martyrium, a church built in the 5th century AD on the alleged spot where Apostle Philip was stoned and crucified upside down in 80 AD. Outside the church runs a corridor where the pilgrims can find a room for the night. The square Martyrium measures no less than 20 x 20 meters, and in its center lies an octagonal rotunda surrounding a crypt that was tied to the apostle for years. Excavations in 2014, however, have located Philip’s gravesite in a 1st-century Roman tomb at the center of a new Christian church, some 40 meters away. This church was built around the grave in the 4th/5th centuries.

[This picture is from Archaeology News Network]

Excavations are still ongoing at Hierapolis, and in 2013, a unique head of Aphrodite was found, clearly dating from the Hellenistic era based on the hairdo and the facial features. More marble sculptures were unearthed, and all have been moved to the nearby Hierapolis Archaeology Museum.

At about the same time, the statue of a 1.5-meter-high marble Cerberus was found. He was the mythological three-headed dog who guarded the entrance to the underworld or Hades, the so-called Gate to Hell. It was discovered thanks to the remains of small birds that appeared to have fallen dead at the mouth of a cave spewing deadly carbon dioxide fumes. Cicero visited this cave in the 1st century BC and reported the phenomenon. Sparrows and also bulls fell dead at the entrance of the cave. Besides this Cerberus, archaeologists also found a huge marble serpent, another mythical guardian of access to the next world.

Wait and see what else the archaeologists will discover in the future.

From Bodrum to Marmaris. Sunflower Guide

Just like the Sunflower Guide covering Antalya to Demre, this is another wonderful book in the same series.

Bodrum to Marmaris (ISBN 978-1856913683) generally covers the area known as Caria in which the coastal cities of Bodrum and Marmaris are central. Additionally, the book also provides a guide to Ephesus and Aphrodisias although this historical sites are much further to the north and no longer part of Caria. Again, we find plenty of useful hints about food and lodging, but also about the signs to look for while getting where you want to go. The sightseeing is arranged around several walks: Bodrum and the wider peninsula above the city, the Gulf of Gökova with Cleopatra’s Beach, Marmaris and surroundings including the Bozburun Peninsula, Datça and the Dorian Peninsula and finally excursions to Pamukkale and Hierapolis, Aphrodisias and even to Ephesus. A beautiful fold-out map of Caria is attached to the back cover providing clear detailed maps along the way.

Besides that, it contains an extensive introduction with all kinds of practical information, such as phone area codes, newspapers, buses, events, shopping, cafés, restaurants, night-life, laundry services, police, entrance fees and opening hours of the archaeological sites and parks, you just name it. A comprehensive history of Turkey and a list of useful Turkish words make this guide complete.

The book is a high standard teamwork of Michael Bussman and Gabriele Tröger, with walks by Brian and Eileen Anderson and Dean Livesley. The seasoned traveller can even check their online update service to make sure he/she has the most recent information when planning a trip to Caria.

In the heart of Butterfly Valley - Lycian Coast 14

Today’s walk will take us to the other side of Butterfly Valley, i.e. to the north. This will be our longest walk since the one to Phellos was canceled. It is a beautiful morning, ideal weather for walking, very pleasant indeed.

The climb starts right away, steadily widening our view over the Blue Lagoon. Early paragliders are hovering above us and in their descent I notice that one of them is close to hit the mast of our Almira – or is my perspective playing tricks on me? But at our next stop I see that the Almira has moved to the side of the bay, safely out of the way of these big toys. Thank God!

The weather is as clear as yesterday’s and we are so lucky to climb this side of the mountain entirely in the shade. It is even so cool that, after finishing our early lunch in a shady spot, we are glad to be moving into the sunshine. Peter and Ivşak carried a wonderful picnic from the boat: stuffed bellpeppers, şigara börek and beans in tomato sauce. Delicious pomegranates, apples and pears for desert, juicy and sweet. All I have to carry is water and believe me that is more than enough for me!

We proceed to the high tree line of the Baba Dağı, the Father Mountain. The whitish rock looks very friable, reminding me of the Sierra Nevada (California) or dead travertine deposits from Pamukkale. The paragliders with their colored canopies keep fascinating us. We hear them yell when they jump off in ecstasy somewhere behind the top or when they perform one of their twists and twirls, free as a bird, soaring through the clear air above us.

The trail now runs among huge boulders that have come down in earlier times, flash flooded river beds filled with debris and where tall pine trees have safely anchored their roots. Occasionally we see rows of beehives, neatly aligned on a ridge and we try to walk around them at a safe distance. In one of the clearings a beekeeper is sharing his picnic with his family and we get a plate filled with pure fresh honey. Basically I don’t fancy honey, but being here in the middle of nature with a treat of this nectar as fresh as can be, I feel I must at least try it. We spot a kind of table rock and with a few smaller stones we build a little shrine to receive the amber-colored plate holding our treat. We gather around and savor the honey dipping our bread in the nectar. What a relish!

And onwards we go! We pass another few rows of beehives where the beekeeper is dressed in his protective suit to gather the honey. He stops when he sees us coming nearer and we march by in a single file in as wide a circle as possible. Unfortunately the bees have been disturbed and buzz around us. All of the sudden we are in the middle of a mass attack! Everybody scrambles, jumps, waves and dances around in a futile effort to chase the bees away. Our guide, Ivşak is the first victim, and then it is my turn. I can’t get rid of the zooming bee, I think it is in my ear but I don’t feel it – just hear the zooming close by. I’m desperate and try to knock it off, running, turning, waving, smacking my hat in the air, but the bee is still buzzing like mad. I cry out for help when I realize that the nasty thing is entangled in my hair but I have no idea how or where. At last I run my fingers through my hair above my ear and eyeglasses and then the frightening sound is gone. My face is afire now. Is the sting still in there? I have no idea. It hurts like hell! When I look around again, our orderly marching line is in complete disarray. Everybody is gesticulating and talking erratically. One of my fellow travelers has been stung in her hair and another one has several stings in his arms.

Luckily Peter is prepared for any situation and he calmly takes the sting out using the small scissors from his emergency kit as tweezers. O good, that is that. The bees are still flocking around us and we all take a run to a safer distance in the shade of the trees to assert the damage. Some antiseptic gel should soothe my pain and after a while it does just that. Ivşak however develops a serious allergic reaction, his face is swelling and his throat feels dry. He is very worried. Out of nowhere, a bus comes riding up, like a being from another planet for we happen to be on the sole stretch of asphalt road for miles around. Strange how things work out at times. The bus stops at the head of our shattered group. We must have been quite a sight for any bystander! The driver and Ivşak exchange a few words and the latter accepts the ride. Peter makes sure we are all capable to continue our walk before the bus pursues his route to town. Later that afternoon we hear that Ivşak has made it to the hospital and got a serum shot. He is OK.

All is under control now and we can continue on our Lycian Way. Are we still on it? Yes, of course we are! Although the walk is longer than yesterday’s it does not feel like it. Maybe the weather is just perfect, maybe I am getting used to the pace, or maybe the terrain simply becomes more familiar – who knows? We now reach the downhill part and realize that Ivşak took off with our food. So we “borrow” a pomegranate here and a bunch of sweet grapes there, doing very well overall. Rather suddenly we have reached the end of our trail, where our bus is waiting for us. Great! It takes us for a short drive to what is called George Restaurant, a plain clean place serving tea and beer overlooking Butterfly Valley, with floors made of broken slabs of marble. Two simple wooden cabins provide lodging for an occasional traveler at the incredible rate of 25 YTL/day, including breakfast and dinner.

We stroll to the very edge of Butterfly Valley, a steep abyss that resonates with the sound of water, somewhere in a hidden downfall. It may be the quietness of the place, or the golden light of the late afternoon sun, but it comes to me like a corner of paradise, a pristine world hidden away from 21st century’s intruders. We are very privileged to witness this!

The drive to the boat takes us over the same road as yesterday, just a little earlier in the evening and we miss the sunset altogether as the magic orange glow disappears behind one of the smaller islands. Time for a good hot shower and another delicious Turkish meal that Fatuşa has put together. Yes, I am hungry!

Click on the Label Lycian Coast to read my full story