It is entirely by accident that I came across the mention of The Citadel of
Alexander the Great in Farah,
Afghanistan. I
must confess that I never looked for it as I didn’t expect to find much traces
of the Macedonian king in that country.
Farah is the modern name for ancient Phrada,
Alexandria
in Drangiana or Alexandria Prophthasia. Besides
being a fortress, the site made headlines because of the famous conspiracy of Philotas that occurred in 330 BC (see: The
Philotas Affair). After the treachery of Philotas was brought to a good end – at
least for Alexander – Alexandria
in Drangiana was renamed Alexandria Prophthasia, appropriately
meaning “Anticipation” since Alexander
anticipated widespread consequences and acted before the others could
attack him.
The events as
told by Curtius unfolded in and
around Alexander’s tent. That is
probably the reason why I was not looking for a nearby fortress of any kind. On
the other hand, it has not been established with certitude that Alexandria
Prophthasia is to be found on the site of Farah either.
Under these
circumstances, it is not unreal to assume that local legend has its own truth
and that the Citadel of Farah was
once occupied by Alexander and his
Macedonians. Reaching a diameter of approximately one square kilometer, its
size is impressive enough. Even today, the earthen walls, which initially were
about 15 meters
high, crown the hill next to Farah’s
bazaar.
Farah as all of Afghanistan,
unfortunately, lacks in-depth archaeological research and excavations. Alexander’s occupation may, after all,
be resting on local folklore. Another theory is that the citadel was built by
the Zoroastrians in the days of Darius I
(the Great), i.e., in the 6th century BC. This would mean that
it already existed when Alexander
arrived.
After the king’s
death, the Seleucids ruled the region until in the 2nd century BC the
Graeco-Bactrians emerged followed by the Parthians and eventually, the Sacae.
It is not
surprising that because of the repeated later additions and transformations, the
origin of this fort remains enigmatic. The Citadel is in deplorable condition,
and recent occupations by the Soviet army and the Mujahedeen fighters have led
to serious disrepair of the site.
All is not lost,
it seems since funds are being requested officially with the Ministry of
Information and Culture to restore the historic site.
It will take much effort
and even more time to disclose the story behind these walls, especially since
so much of Afghanistan is in dear need of excavation and protection (see: Saving
Afghanistan’s Incredible Heritage).